Wd 45 govner setting

Dustyah

Member
I recently bought a 1955 wd45 wfe, seems to run fine, but the guy before me messed with gove linkage adjustments, there is now a spring, which grabs the carb, zenith, and pulls towards the alternator, he said he'd replaced carb, and adjusted gov, doesn't seem as peppy or as powerful as my very loose ,very leaky, wd 45 nfe, been playing with it on a 6 foot bush hog, if I remove this bandaid spring, it seems, not to want to return to idle and at an 1" of moment on the quadrant its wot, gov issue??, just want base setting adjust, as well as for zenith carb, thanks all
Dusty
 
I always get a little concerned when I hear about a carb. replacement. There are almost infinite possibilities of length and orientation of the throttle shaft lever. That has to be correct to work with the governor.

Basically, the governor and throttle plate should be wide open at the same time. The internal gov. spring is rated for max. speed, and of course the weights need to be in working order.
 
Dusty[/quote] Let's start by removing that nasty spring. Maybe it's supposed to be for the choke ?? Anyway, set the hand throttle wide open with the engine off. With that spring removed, remove the cotter pin from the carb link rod directly behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the vertical governor arms hole.( The link rod cotter pin should have been behind the governor arm. If not, someone has installed the link rod bass-ackwards, which means the link rod will have to be removed from the carb to turn it around. Make sure the cotter pin at the carb end is cut short and wrapped tightly so it cannot interfere with linkage movement.) The governor arm should not have moved rearwards when the link rod was pulled out of the hole. If it did move, bend the link rod in the middle by pulling down on it and make it shorter so it just slides back into the gov arm hole. Now, start the engine and see what you've got.
 
Dusty[/quote] Let's start by removing that nasty spring. Maybe it's supposed to be for the choke ?? Anyway, set the hand throttle wide open with the engine off. With that spring removed, remove the cotter pin from the carb link rod directly behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the vertical governor arms hole.( The link rod cotter pin should have been behind the governor arm. If not, someone has installed the link rod bass-ackwards, which means the link rod will have to be removed from the carb to turn it around. Make sure the cotter pin at the carb end is cut short and wrapped tightly so it cannot interfere with linkage movement.) The governor arm should not have moved rearwards when the link rod was pulled out of the hole. If it did move, bend the link rod in the middle by pulling down on it and make it shorter so it just slides back into the gov arm hole. Now, start the engine and see what you've got.
 

Hey DrAllis...

Recently my WD-45 throttle has started creeping closed badly..I never lube the quadrant, so I see no reason for it to start closing on its own..

I have been using a make-shift wire to hold the lever.. the tension springs look normal...what do you think is the right cure..?

I'd really not like removing the steering wheel to install heavier tension springs...

Ron.
 
New plastic friction block ?? Counterbalance spring underneath the gas tank getting weak?? can stretch it some to the rear for more tension?? Positioning or clocking of that bell crank more counterclockwise might help?? have to change both rod positions to do that.
 

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