Wiring generator on D10

bv

Member
On the A post on generator does it go to the Gen post on the regulator? There's a L post on the regulator but I don't have a wire for it, I put the F on gen to F on reg and the hot wire on the bat post so is this right, don't want to burn anything up and it came with no instructions
 
Now it shows discharge while it's running so what's next? I just had the gen rebuilt too
 
It sounds like you have a new regulator? I expect it's marked for both P/N ground, or not marked at all. I think most, if not all of the new ones don't care. But it's one thing to check.
The system will need to be polarized. Momentarily touch a wire from the BAT terminal to the ARM, (or GEN) terminal. You'll get a spark. It should work then, assuming everything is at it should be, and well grounded.
 
They were originally hooked up positive ground, if you switched to negative, did you ever swap the leads on the ammeter and re-polarize at the Voltage Regulator? I also like to motor the generator at the correct polarity with it disconnected from wiring and belt. It proves the generator is good.

Caveat: The diagram below is beta, It's the SIII AC diagram which I modified to order wire and will be verifying connections when I do the wiring in a couple of weeks. I haven't checked it over again to guarantee polarities are correct. Use at own risk.

That said, here is the Series III diagram I'm using to rewire. This is a negative ground conversion. Serial 3501 and up are very similar only with a 4-lug voltage regulator which feeds lights and ammeter separately. My recollection is that I put the correct colors for the SIII on this diagram, but SII may be different color coding, and I don't have the diagram on the Series I. When done, there will also be a 30amp spade fuse between ammeter and voltage regulator (not shown).

mvphoto19803.jpg
 
On that type of regulator, the L runs to the starting key switch and then to the fuse and on to the light switch. You must have a Series II or I. Here is the Series II diagram. If your serial number is below 3501, it will be different than this but it will have a similar set up for the Voltage Regulator. Remember that this is a positive ground diagram so several things will change, battery of course, then Ammeter and Coil.

mvphoto19806.jpg


Sorry for the photo quality, the wind was trying to flip the pages so it became distorted.
 
Since I don't know what vintage tractor you have, I will include this which might be indicative of late 50s and 1960 machines. This is not a D10 diagram but shows an alternate wiring for the 4-lug voltage regulator. Note that this is six volt and I am not aware as to whether the black bar grill D10 was six or twelve though it was certainly originally positive ground. Because of that, the same warnings apply to this (reverse coil, ammeter, and battery polarity).

Here the L terminal on the Voltage Regulator, goes to the starter switch hot side. At that lug, it tees to feed the light fuse (and thus switch). On the switched side of the starter switch, when depressed, that is also feeding the solenoid actuator.

There is no guarantee that this diagram matches your tractor, I don't have a diagram for the early black bar grill machines, this is a guess as to how they might have been wired based on how AC wired other machines also using the 4-lug VR. It's actually the same thing if you think about it, the difference is the starter switch and key are separated in earlier machines, integral in later machines. A possibly inaccurate way to phrase it, is that the L terminal wants to be connected to the light circuit, and in both cases, it is by way of the ignition or starter switch. But you can see in both cases, it's also serving a second function to actuate the starter solenoid.

AC D14 Wiring Diagram:
mvphoto19807.png
 
Mine is a Series III tractor and I just had the
generator rebuilt and I bought the regulator from a
vendor on here, did they send me the wrong one
you think?
 
Thank you guys for your help today it's working now with a little excitement from the battery wire
 
Bob,

I have to thank you for responding, I was prepared to drive to town and rip one of those apart to double-check that it had a shunt between Batt and Load, I'm relieved it does.

I will make sure the sales people add the information to that catalog entry to say how it's used on a Series III so it doesn't confuse people when they come up short a wire.

Chris
 

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