Blowing tension seal on us 2010 dozer

John Deere 2010 bulldozer keeps blowing the left tension track seal.have replaced a couple times now.. cylinder looks good everything lines up everything is tight all the guide wheels and all greased-up well but it keeps blowing that seal why I have used it gingerly just moving around with lot and stuff but after about an hour it just pops and I lose my track can someone please please help me
 
Track tension has been at 2
inch and also one and three
quarter inch I really
couldn't find any specs
except 1.57 inches.....an I
off on tension?
 
Take off the recoil spring cover,see the spring is not broken,see the spring is not caked in mud that has gone hard and won't allow it to compress should something get in the track,the recoil spring acts like a shock absolver,if it jammed the track has nothing to cushion any shock and all the pressure goes on the seal,if that all checks good measure the diameter of the cylinder in case it has gone oval,hard to say what can be wrong without seeing it.
AJ
 
I did notice the coil spring on the right hand side is about quarter inch to 1/2 inch shorter than the one on the left the one on the left is the one that keeps blowing the seal....
. But the coil spring is locked into the place by the rear sprocket.. that is why I asked if there was an adjustment on the coil spring itself
 
Matt, I am not familiar with your machine but have a couple of
suggestions. 1- somebody could have installed the wrong spring on
your left track. 2. Have someone observe the tracks on the left
side as you are moving and see if there is any pin that is not
riding smoothly on the rear sprocket. If there is a frozen track
link it will put extra tension on the track when it hits the
sprocket. This would also be indicated by the slack near your top
idler periodically tightening and loosening as you are moving.
 
I read your first post again and realized you say it failed after an hour,I think you can leave the recoil spring out of the equation,if its not broke or clogged up that's not the cause,those springs are dangerous because even on a small tractor they are under tension of several tons pressure and require a press and experience to service them,are you sure you are putting the seal in facing the right direction,usually the cup seal will have pressure side printed on it,if not the cup should face the front.
AJ
 
Good call on the spring....i wasn't really wanting to tangle with a spring just for that reason.....yes pretty sure on the seal going the right way....seems to go only one way...cup towards the grease fitting..but will double check when I install new one tomorrow....can i take some pics to show you?..
Tomorrow or next?
 
I will look closely at that tomorrow....this could be a possibly...thank you so much for your imput..feel free to give me more if something else comes to mind...thank you
 
I would say there is a problem with your spring. there is a long threaded bolt going through it. guess someone could have tightened it to much or could be broke. spring has to have some recoil to take pressure off the adjuster. I have a spring if you need one. im in Missouri. good luck.
 
Sorry about the late reply I'm on the other side of the pond different time zone,what is the history of this,how long was the original seal in,if you could post a picture of the blown seal it would help,I have seen lots of seals fail over the years,some from just ware and tear,others rusty cylinder bores,the seal can stand up to some severe treatment,the recoil spring has very little travel till the coils close and then it goes solid,it's purpose is to cushion the initial shock,why it can be dangerous when the spring is compressed is held by the centre bolt,that bolt is the danger the bolt can rust over the years and should the nuts rust to the bolt and someone comes along and puts a socket on and tries to loosen the nuts the bolt twists and breaks,bang,but of course if it has to be changed it has to be done just beware of the dangers and be safe.
AJ
 
Spring will have no effect on what you are experiencing. If one spring is slightly longer, that will have been compensated for by adjusting the length of the adjuster so to speak. No, springs should not be different length, but spring length is only a function of preload. You will never run tracks tight enough to compress a spring.
If your adjusters are way out, they are more prone to pop the seal, but this is because the seal is coming out the end of the barrel because the adjuster is over extended.
Lavoy
 
Pictures of my Springs and the blowing out seals if this will help at all once again I thank you all for the help you guys are truly the best
 
Are you sure the track isn't worn internally to the point that it starts to run off the idler,and the
extra tension pops the seal and then the track runs off?
 
If the track is so badly worn that the piston is coming out too far you need to take a link from that side,how you would you not notice it is beyond me,the track would be snaking and coming off every turn,are you a novice to this type of machinery,for the track to have that amount of slack the pins and bushings must be eaten over half way through or the chain is the wrong length.
P
 
(quoted from post at 12:09:36 09/06/18) Are you sure the track isn't worn internally to the point that it starts to run off the idler,and the
extra tension pops the seal and then the track runs off?
is there some sort of measurement I can take I have not noticed it running off the idler arm at all not saying that it doesn't happen when I'm not looking but I have been closely observing what is going on trying to figure this out
 
No I don't believe this is the case where the track is so worn that the Piston comes out too far out of the cylinder of course I didn't measure it but it appears to me from the the beginning with no grease until the track is tightened the travels maybe 2 in probably less which will bring me to my next question is what is the proper tension for these tracks for this may be a problem also
 
Don't know what you guys think of this idea but I am thinking of taking the right side adjuster off and putting it on the left side putting a new seal on the left side and moving it to the right side if the right side track starts blowing it out as a problem with my cylinder if the less. Continues to blow out even after changing them it's a track issue what do you think and is it worth the effort to do this
 
I'm not sure what you guys think of this idea but because it is just a bulldozer i am using in The Wood Yard doing light work with...maybe putting a double seal in a cylinder or even putting a new seal in the tensioner and setting the track at its desired tension and putting a small bead of weld the hold the idler arm ? Once again thank you guys for trying to help me out... you guys are the best
 
I don't have the info specific to track sag (tension) on your machine but 7/8 inch to 1-1/8 inch sag is common on this size machine. Check by centering a track pin over the top carrier roll and laying a straight edge on top of the track from the carrier roll to the idler. Measure the sag of the track in the center of that area. (Sag between the carrier roll and sprocket will be similar.) If you are going to keep the machine you should invest in the John Deere manuals for it.

The document below is Dresser but the undercarriage basics are the same and should help you with checking your tracks.

http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf
 
The SAG on the track I have been running at about 2 in could just be my problem? Just an afterthought with me running such a sag in it and the tractor and i dont throw the track is a good sign that maybe my track is not as warm as I am thinking it is?
 
Those parts are not normally wearing parts.If you had other problems that could cause it to wear.I think that if you look at the pork chops on your front idlers you are going to see some problems.those parts have to slide snugly on the rails.They have shims to remove to tighten them up,but most times the parts are worn,letting the idler cock to one side or the other.The idler shaft can be worn in the idler,and the shaft can be worn where it fits in the bore of the pork chop.I've seen the rails where the idler ride worn to razor thin.That piston/bore in the track adjuster is not a close tolerance fit,so if that idler gets so it can move side to side it will let the grease out of the piston.
 
Traxxas smooth and quiet when I'm running down the road I haven't thrown a track..... seal blows out for no apparent reason
 
Are you sure the parts you have are the right ones? I only ask as a double check, since the failure reason has not been found. In looking at the parts breakdown there were two different hydraulic adjusters. The outer wiper seal, that keeps dirt out, is the same for both. The inner seal arrangement on the piston rod that actually holds the grease to tension the track is different. The early type up to serial number 41999 was a packing cup with a follower washer held by a screw. Then the catalog shows a substitute piston that used the quad ring seal used on the adjusters after S/N 42000. The piston rod and cylinder housing were different starting with that serial number as well. Hard to tell the changes done to it since it was built.
 
It's a cupped looking seal held on with washer looking peice and a bolt and je cjp is facing the grease fitting... To me it looks like a flimsy piece of rubber wish I could find one made of neoprene or something a little more rugged.
 
Have you made a typo with the part #? I make it T11123T,I too thought the seal would be neoprene,did you get it from a JD dealer,I have not seen that rubber/fabric seal for over forty years but back then they would last for a fair length of time,I did not think that your track was so badly worn that you did not notice it,you seem competent enough to me,if the cylinder is gone out round it could be the cause,it looks beefy enough for the job,I would not advise welding anything to keep the track tight,a piece of angle iron on the adjuster to stop the cylinder from closing is the norm,in case the track is too long count the pads,one can never know what's been done to machines of that age,you were having trouble uploading pictures,first make sure the picture size is less than 300K,file the picture where it is easy to find,scroll down past this box and the one below it,you will see Upload Photos/Videos in the red menu bar,below that click Choose Files, select your picture and click open,you will be back at the post page again and see the thumbnail of the picture,go up and click on preview,you will now see the post that will appear,if ok click on submit.
AJ
mvphoto23025.png
 
PS forgot to add about the adjustment,we were thought that on a hard surface with the track free of mud to drive the machine forward so the sag is at the top,position one track pin over the top roller,put a straight edge from the pad on top of the roller to the top of the idler,I would say on machine that size the sag should be about 1 1/2 to 2" at the lowest point for normal dirt work,sand/gravel the track needs to be looser as the material will build up on the sprocket etc and make the track tighter.
AJ
 
Could the cup seal lips be catching and rolling some during installation? When you install the piston into the cylinder do you use a wrap of thin shim stock, or such, to hold the lips of the cup seal compressed to get into the bore past the wiper seal?
 
I hate to sound needy but would somebody please tell me how to upload a photo on this I've done it six times and it never comes through thank you
 
It looks like size can be an issue. Check the size of your photo file if you haven't. The line under upload photos and videos says 300k max. From a post someone else made about their photos not showing up in posts, the reply noted 2-4MB may get thru on the modern view, depending on your connection speed.
 

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