More on Oil

fastfarmall

Well-known Member
Tractor Vet; Why don't you recommend a 10W-30 oil, Yeah i run 30 in the B with the mower on it, and that will almost break the oil pressure needle off of it,but there's no chance i am going to start that in the winter, either. All the other gas tractors get 10W-30 .
 
I have run Pennzoil in all my vehicles since i started owning them over 40 years ago.
When i order it at the parts counter where i work, most of the parts guys suggest lipton
iced tea as a cheaper alternative because of thier dislike of Pennzoil.
I have had good luck with engines all this time, but i credit that mainly to frequent oil
changes and the correct viscosity more than the brand, but i like to run Pennzoil just to
rub the 'brand' religious wrong.
I won't run 10-30 in my tractors, if it gets cold in Kansas the diesel gets used to move snow
anyway, if it doesn't start, which is seldom, snow doesn't get moved.
Your mileage may vary.
Anybody wanna argue about penetrants? LOLOLOL.
 
Farmall B data
Compression: 5.33:1
Rated RPM: 1400

With numbers like this, I bet you can use anything as long as it is clean, liquid and slick.
 
Valvoline Premium Blue (and others) have a low ash oil that is very near the .5% mark specified by IH. (might be .6%) It meets the current low ash requirements of IH. CK4 is one spec to look for. Jim
 
Valve coking on Gasoline 6 cylinder IH engines is where the issue becomes important. I believe the engine could be fitted with Perfect Circle style Teflon ring seals on the valves and the issue would go away. But new oils will be very low ash due to latest emissions requirements anyway. Jim
 
170 PSI! Brings up the question what is the compression ratio and what octane gas are you using? Bet it pulls pretty good.
 
I don't know how to figure it, I am sure Jim does, but i am guessing it about 9.5 to 1. I use 91 Octane, with out any corn in it. It man handles that woods mower just fine!
 
moll, your post made me laugh, because it could have been me writing it. I've also used Pennzoil forever, and like you, I've always had good luck.

And I use Fram oil filters, too. From reading the internet, it seems I could just as well pour sand in the oil spout as use a Fram filter. But again, I've had good luck.

Unlike you, though, I do use 10w-30 in my M. My driveway is 1/4 mile long, and if the snow doesn't get moved, my wife and I don't make it to work, and that's not an option for either of us. So my M HAS to start when it's cold, if there's snow to move.

As far as penetrants, I'm a PB Blaster user, but that's the only one I've ever used, so I don't have a strong option about that. So no argument from me. LOL.
 
Well all of the tractors run a 30 weight gas and diesel and on the gassers they would start just fine . Now the coldest that i personally started tractors was my 706 gas that was inside a nice warm three sided pole barn at -30 degrees back during the blizzards of 77and 78 , no it did not spin like 85 degrees on the plus side but they started. My super H that i use to use to plow the snow with would start a -30 and again not like summer even with the six volt , But i can tell ya this at -35 by my temp stick here at the house -35 was a no go For both me and the tractor , Now maybe if i would have jumped it it might have went but i was not messing with it setting under a tarp in the back yard . Now the diesels they get cranky when it gets down to around 0 and a couple hours plugged in they start once ya get the chill out of them. when i had a semi with a NTC small cam Cummins it ran 30 weight as this was what was recommenced , they did not go to the 15-40 till the big cams and on them oil pressure was reduced , small cammers ran around 70 psi HOT Big cams 45 Hot . . I don't care how you build and engine they all use some oil , not as much today as past engines . according to FO MO CO back when i was wrench twisten they did NOT consider excessive oil consumption till ya started sucken more then a qt to 650 miles , if you used just one drop of oil per mile then ya would use about a qt every 400 miles . working a good tight tractor engine all day they would eat around a qt a day , if ya ran a Detroit that would be a gallon a day . Yep on them old detroits when you came in at night and fueld up you just went and got a gallon as it was a gallon low . fi you try and tighten up the valve stems tomuch ya take the guides out . I did not come up with this low ash oild on my own , we were having valve problems with other tractors , I picked up a lot of work when one dealer closed up and got a lot of gas tractor work . One of them had a 460 gas and they had valve problems from day one and they bought it from the now closed dealer . when that tractor was used as the main tractor three to four times a year the head was off for burnt valves . Years back i was at a sale and i was talking to Clyde Burkshire and i said something to him that the way the sale wqas going i should have stayed at the shop and worked as i had at the time four in for valve jobs That 460 a 560 nd one customer 706 and one of my sale tractors to do . while he and i were talking he said to me ya see that guy standing over there ya need to talk to him , he knows how to solve the problem and he will tell you , him and his two other brothers ran the I H dealership in Marion . SOOOOOOoooooo i went over and talked to Bill and BILL told me ya need to switch OIL and go with the I H Low ash . Well we did all the and eugene Vernon and John Boy and my self have not had a problem since on valve jobs and got the guys to switch oil . shot myself in the foot , Good easy money doing them.
 
As long as everyone is unloading here I will add my two bits. I have always been a 30W guy. Granted it doesn't get that cold here (CA) but the specs on all the old Cats call for straight 30W. Multi grade oils use polymers to modify the viscosity. I want to lube my engines with oil NOT polymers.
 
You have just been lucky on fram filters. The company I worked for went to Fram filters . After loosing 3 DT466 to oil filters they went back to Fleet Guard filters.I tried a Fram oil filter in a Buick with a 430 V8 and oil light would come on when idling. I pulled the Fram filter and put a Wix on it and light never come on.
 
Agree, WD-40 is a cleaner. PB Blaster will lubricate, remove corrosion, remove rust, prevent future corrosion, lubr rubber parts, clean up elec parts and switches. I use it on everything. WD just doesn't get the job done.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top