Draw Bar on Farmall H 1942 Is anyone using one of these

rgrimard · Nov 21, 2017

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Hi All.....I have a H-Series Wide-Front end Farmall.
I would like to attach a Draw Bar on the back end. Is anyone
using a 52" 3/4 thick 2 1/2 wide bar?? I could provide a photo
of the Rear end section where it would be mounted that has 8 or 10 holes already pre-drilled into a frame.
I would like to be able to attach a Chain to this draw bar for general use like pulling logs out of the woods.
I'm not sure just how it would attach to the underside of the Tractor....
Thank you for your Reply....Ron (Maine)

Janicholson · Nov 21, 2017

Any M or H loop drawbar will fit like a glove. The M drawbar is thicker but the same size and geometry. The actual swinging
component attaches under the belly. and has a loop (or roller) on the loop. They bolt to the axle with clamps, not threaded
holes. Finding one close to you is by far the best as they weigh 90# or so for an H and 120 for an M. The H must use the H
swinging component. In the mean time do not connect to the axle ever, it is a sure way to flip the tractor. Jim

BarnyardEngineering · Nov 22, 2017

Ok, first things first, you don't need to say "H-series." Just say "H." Saves a bit on the typing.

That frame with the 10 holes *IS* the drawbar. That is what people call the "horseshoe drawbar" because if you take it off the tractor it looks like a giant horseshoe.

You can attach to that and pull no problem. That is what is there for.

What you are talking about is the "swinging drawbar" which was a common option on most tractors.

The swinging drawbar attaches to Part #20 in the diagram above, which is bolted to the belly of the tractor. Look up under your tractor, you may have one of these already. You need parts 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 to add a swinging drawbar if you don't have any of those pieces already. It's best to get them all together at once off of a parts tractor.

rgrimard · Nov 22, 2017

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Thank you "BarnyardEngineering" this is exactly what I was looking for, a diagram of how all of that steel gets connected.!!

I do wish I had the same type of H Manual, any idea where this type of book or Guide is sold?? I did buy the Servicemans Guide for the H and the Operators Manual for H and HV.

external link did not have to much to offer in the way of user guides or manuals. Thank you again for your Help....Ron

rustyfarmall · Nov 22, 2017

I never had much need for a swinging drawbar, but the attachment, #23, is especially handy. I have those on my 2 Hs. It was developed by IH so the H and the M would conform to the new, standardized, P.T.O. configuration adopted by ALL farm machinery manufacturers. It also makes a very nice step.

Farmallhal · Nov 22, 2017

The pictorial shown below provided by BarnyardEngineering with the individual components of the Farmall H draw-bar is from the TC-27E or an earlier version of the Parts Catalog for Farmall H and HV tractors. I obtained my copy years ago from the local (50 miles away) CaseIH dealership but they can probably also be ordered directly from this site or Binder Books in Oregon. They are very handy in showing assembly of the various major components of the tractor along with providing part numbers of the individual parts to assist in part acquisition for needed or missing parts. Hope you enjoy your tractor, Hal.

rgrimard · Nov 22, 2017

Thank you for your reply "Rustyfarmall". I was wondering why so many drilled holes in that Horseshoe bar?. Those 10 holes are not threaded, so I could use a Pin about the same Dia as the holes, I could just move the Pin into the hole that I select, I guess?.
I want to use Slip hook Chain and was thinking that the draw bar
would be helpful. Since I don't have the draw bar only the Horseshoe to attach to a large enough Pin locked in place might
serve the purpose. I'm not sure what other folks have done so that they can use a length of 20ft slip hook chain to fasten it to the H??... Any suggestions are welcomed here for sure!!.

John in Ct · Nov 22, 2017

I am working on my H drawbar too. Mine is so bent that trying to get the #7 eye bolts into the #5's is a challenge. My father had a hay baler accident over 50 years ago and I am trying to figure out what is bent beyond the obvious bend in the horseshoe # 2. Both # 3's are bent. How thick should #2 horseshoe be? One of My #5's is bent on top fork, should I straighten it cold or red hot and/or cool it in water or just replace it? I also picked up a NOS # 18 swinging drawbar and figured out why it sat on the shelf. The hole for under the tractor is off center. .

rustyfarmall · Nov 22, 2017

(quoted from post at 11:43:03 11/22/17)
Thank you for your reply "Rustyfarmall". I was wondering why so many drilled holes in that Horseshoe bar?. Those 10 holes are not threaded, so I could use a Pin about the same Dia as the holes, I could just move the Pin into the hole that I select, I guess?.
I want to use Slip hook Chain and was thinking that the draw bar
would be helpful. Since I don't have the draw bar only the Horseshoe to attach to a large enough Pin locked in place might
serve the purpose. I'm not sure what other folks have done so that they can use a length of 20ft slip hook chain to fasten it to the H??... Any suggestions are welcomed here for sure!!.

The holes are there to accomodate many different types of implements that were "semi-mounted" or fully mounted. The holes are not threaded. A bolt, or bolts, were used to attach the hay-mower, etc. directly to the horseshoe drawbar,

rgrimard · Nov 22, 2017

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Hi John....I guess we both are working on the same similar
issues with this Horse shoe bar. Good luck with yours, sounds like you might need to fine someone with a Blacksmith shop or some other heating device.
For me, I think I may try using some sort of sizeable Pin with a clevis attachment so that does not drop to the ground. I have also thought about a Heat Treaded bolt with threads on both ends with washers to keep the bolt on the bar. I'll wrap the chain around the Bolt and fix the slip chain back onto its self. I'll see if that works.

What type of Tractor do you have?? mine is a Farmall H 1942 rebuilt all the transmission and shifting gears. I didn't, had it done.
My Carb is being rebuilt in Ohio, complete work over....Ron

SadFarmall · Nov 23, 2017

I bought a bar new a couple of years ago; wasn't too expensive. The H and M swinging drawbar setup is poor. It puts pressure on the fixed draw bar if the load is not pulled straight, so the fixed bar is often bent. The Super AM (Australian Super M) had a modified arrangement as shown. I made a similar one for my H and it works well.
SadFarmall

Super AM Swinging Drawbar

Farmall H Swinging Drawbar

rgrimard · Nov 23, 2017

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Thank you kind Sir for your photo and sharing your experience with the Swing Draw Bar design. I like your Modification and I will make me a copy of your setup for my H. Its nice to get feed back on these issues from those who have done it !!... Thank you again "Mate"...Ron (USA Maine)

mattofvinings · Nov 23, 2017

(quoted from post at 19:57:01 11/22/17) I am working on my H drawbar too. Mine is so bent that trying to get the #7 eye bolts into the #5's is a challenge. My father had a hay baler accident over 50 years ago and I am trying to figure out what is bent beyond the obvious bend in the horseshoe # 2. Both # 3's are bent. How thick should #2 horseshoe be? One of My #5's is bent on top fork, should I straighten it cold or red hot and/or cool it in water or just replace it? I also picked up a NOS # 18 swinging drawbar and figured out why it sat on the shelf. The hole for under the tractor is off center. .

You can use oxyacetylene to heat the part(s) up to bright orange and hammer them back just like a blacksmith. An anvil will help. Just let the parts air cool. It would be advisable to find a helper to at minimum hold the torch because there is a lot going on during the short period of time while the part is at temp. Definitely do some study on oxyacetylene safety. The torch should never be "set down" while lit unless its a purpose built hook that's been tested for reliability. The flame will light anything combustible on fire in less than the blink of an eye, as expected its a very concentrated heat source!!

mattofvinings · Nov 23, 2017

Forgot to add...someone with a propane (or coal!) forge will be able to heat the parts more cheaply than oxyacetylene. But oxyacetylene has a lot of other benefits for silver & bronze brazing, the "blue wrench" for removing rusted fasteners and flame cutting heavy steel.

SadFarmall · Nov 23, 2017

No trouble at all! I wish I had thought of the design, but it was IHC Geelong. If you do bend the fixed bar, be aware it may have cracked…
SadFarmall

rgrimard · Nov 23, 2017

Hi again.....I don't plan on pulling to heavy of a load, probably just some logs out of the Woods, one at a time for the most part.
That is a good point about "stress cracks" and you'll never see them until its to late.
Those steel wheels on your tractor look like they will dig into the ground pretty good as long as its not muddy,,,pretty aggressive on hard soil I bet.!!
I'd like to see what the Tractor looks like from a "side view" do you have a photo of it that you could send me??.. I'll try to do the same with a photo, newly painted [color=red:e2c8f98e99]Red[/color:e2c8f98e99]

John in Ct · Nov 23, 2017

1947 H. I did pick up a good thicker horseshoe drawbar that is thicker than the original. I am looking for 2 really good support rods. My setup was bent enough that if you loosened up the 4 eyebolts with the drawbar crank wrench and took it off, you would have to work really hard to get it back on by loosening everything up.

Draw Bar on Farmall H 1942 Is anyone using one of these

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