replacing sleeves in 1941H - need help !

jeff juber

New User
have a question regarding an H that was given to me with a rust stuck engine - acording to the ser # and casting numbers on block and head its a 1941 -- anyway -- on the deck of the block ( where the head gasket goes ) - the first 2 cylinders are stanped with an " E " - the #3 cylinder ( the one that was rusted solid ) is stamped " C " - and #4 is stamped with " D " -- Question is if I buy an engine kit - which i suspect all 4 sleeves are going to be the same size ( as the bores in the block should be in the first place ) am i going to have loose sleeves in in # 1 and 2 and to tight a fit in # 3 and 4 ??? If so what is the " fix " ?? and can anyone tell me the correct hydraulic pressure for pressing in the dry sleeves in in the old girl ? Have been a heavy equipment mechanic for 35 years now - the different bore sizes from the factory is a new one on me !! any help or suggestions are much appreciated !! thank you all !
 
I know the letters are what IH used to match sleeves. However I have install many H sleeves I got from this site and never had one that was loose. They fit very snug, lubed with dawn soap and had to tap them in with wood block and a hammer.
 
There was never a spec on how much pressure to install sleeves on those engines. All you can do is make sure it is a nice firm press and I don't mean firm by hand. I always try each sleeve in each bore and try to select so they have the best fit in individual bore. You will usually find one or two sleeves that go in easier in any bore and likewise , the bores will usually be slightly different size. The selective fit letters on block was strictly for factory use back in the day.

I clean the bore with a wire wheel on a drill and only use a ridged hone if a sleeve is really to tight or some inperfection. I always use a hydraulic installing tool and just have the feel for what is right. Some times they are a little looser than I really want but not a whole lot you can do about it without a major undertaking. I install at room temp of block and sleeve so I know how tight they are. If you freeze them you don't know if they are tight or not.

Sleeve flange height has gotten to be a problem in last years so might want to check old flange and be sure new ones are very close to same. Head gasket problems develop if flange is too high . I like no more than .004.
 
Thanks for that info guys ! I kinda thought that was probubly the case -- and yes - i'll check the flanges before installing sleeves .
do you know if only a single sleeve is available for that engine ?? only the #3 cylinder was stuck - and the piston looks fine .. the bore in the engine block measures 3.560 - or 3 and 9/16 - ideally would like to hone the 3 good cylinders - and replace the sleeve on the bad one - new rings on all - and put her back together .. middle of winter and money is tight rite now .. have been a heavy equip mechanic 35 years now ( yuck ! ) and really -- everything else in the engine looks fine - crank - bearings etc .. and whats up with the high compression pistons in the old girl ( its a 1941 dual fuel ) -- think someone had it apart before and gave it a face lift !!
 
I'm not an "H" expert by any means, but I overhauled one for my dad back in the early '80s. I remember getting some high-domer pistons and sleeves from Tractor Supply (back when they actually sold tractor parts) and had the crank ground. By the Plastigauge that I used, I remember the bearings were pretty tight, but I rolled the dice and assembled it. It still runs like a champ and my brother has a buzz saw on it, still using it. Oil pressure is still very high on the first start up and is above average when at idle.
 
It is likely that it has been apart. I think some High altitude Distillate Hs had raised top pistons, but likely just a rebuild and attempt to improve the performance. The engine
was intended for use with Distillate "tractor fuel". Start on gasoline and run of distillate. so the fact that we run them on gasoline only is because there is no distillate
available. Getting the sleeve in the hole is not difficult. If it goes in 2/3 of the way by hand, then tightens up enough to think about a block of wood or pulling it in with a
device, the sleeve is about right. I would chill the sleeve in a freezer, and warm the block at that hole and put it in. It is just so much easier to get it home. Jim
 

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