Farmall cub not firing

1951 farmall cub with horizontal distributor is not getting fire anywhere. What do I need to check first, second, third ................? Was starting fine last spring. Now nothing. I just don't know much about electrical systems. If you reply, please be very basic or it will be over my head. Thanks.
 
clean the points they can get a film from setting around then with sw on when you open and close then should see a spark
 
My first step is to connect a "test light" between the distributor terminal and chassis ground.
The light should flash while cranking. This indicates power to the ignition system and functioning points.
If the light stays ON, most likely the points are dirty or not closing. Clean points and adjust points.
If the light does not light, check for power to the coil. If you have power, check for the possibility that points are not opening and adjust points if necessary. Not so likely possibility of shorted condenser.
Dirty or corroded points are a good possibility after sitting for a while.
 
Gene and I are saying the same thing. Gene will probably have it running quicker than I would because I would get a test light. By the time I would get back with a test light, Gene would have it running.
You describe yourself as being less experienced. For that reason, I am forwarding my general theory of trouble shooting. That being to identify the problem before taking action to repair. You can save time and money by fixing a known problem rather than replacing parts until it works. Sometimes not knowing what fixed the problem.
Of course this is not a perfect world and sometimes it may come down to guessing.
 
The most likely ting that is causing you a problem is the points have sat closed and cored and need o be cleaned. Easy way to check that is pull the distributor cap and rotor and turn on the ignition and carefully open the points by hand. Reason I say carefully is if you do it the wrong way you will get zapped. When you open the points you should both see and hear a spark. If you do not then the points need to be cleaned or replaced. One can buy a points file at most any auto parts store for around a buck
 
Then you should have a good time up at the chain auto supply when you ask the counter kid for a points file. First he will ask you what points are. Then he will ask you what a file is. Then he will tell you that they never sold anything like that ever. When he walks away you will realize it was right there on the shelf behind him.

Your problem is not a difficult one. Do what the guys have said and if that doesn't work then get a test light and follow the voltage. Start at the battery, thru the switch....to the plugs. You will learn tons and find the problem. You cannot expect to own and operate old equipment and not know how it works. So dig in and have fun!
 
You know Dave I almost NEVER use a test light I do a spark test. If I am unsure if it is the ignition or the ignition wire I use a hot wire and if I do not get a spark when I hook up the hot wire I know the points are open which is not likely or the points need TLC. I've used that spark test some many times people that see me do it get this odd look on there face when they see how easy it is to do a simple test
 
All good comments to check. On my M, first thing I do with no firing is to pull the distributor cap and spray a little WD-40 inside the cap. Wipe out the excess, reinstall, and it pops right off. My M sets inside and don't know why but get condensation inside the cap especially in the spring. Do you know that the "WD" in WD-40 stands for water displacement?
 
Heres an easy step by step test using not much more then your eyes and maybe a 12 volt test lamp. Often its burned points that are the cause of no fire but my procedure can help find the cause

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T
John Ts Ignition Troubleshooting
 
Well Rich, I would like to tell you that I have a logical mind and like to follow things from the source on BUT...

The truth is my fingers don't fit those tight spaces on the Cub so I like to use the probe to narrow things down to save a lot of frustration. Hate to mess around in that little distributor just to find out the switch was bad. We all have our methods I guess. :)
 
That is why I use a simple jumper wire from the battery to the coil. If you get a spark when you hot wire it points are good no spark points are open of bad simple as that. That way I know which way to go to find the problem
 
Removed the points and cleaned the contacts. Still no fire. Checked coil and not getting any spark during the test. Replaced coil and the little cub started almost immediately. That electrical work baffles me. Thanks for the help.
 

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