IH 2504 connecting rod bearings

question for the smart folks. I have a 1963 IH 2504 with the gas engine, new connecting rod bearings arrived and I am about to install. The old bearings have a couple holes in them, new ones do not... Should I drill holes in new ones to match old or just install as is??? Help please
 
Bummer, I was hoping to get the old beast back together today.
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I looked and there is no corresponding ports or holes on the connecting rod cap or the connecting rod itself, makes me wonder how the wrist pin at the piston gets oiled.

picture is of old bearings next to the new ones.
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If the holes in old bearing feed nothing , I don't know why you need the holes.
If they do feed the rod for splash to the cylinder wall ot something then i would say you need them.
 
IH quit feeding wrist pins from a hole in the rod back in the 40's as far as I know. Motor truck finally figured it out that it caused more problems than it helped and I don't know if farm tractors ever used rifle drilled connecting rods. All wrist pins are lubricated by splash down through a hole in top end of rods.

That is one thing I found on Deere engines was they used the drilled rods and usually the bushings were worn much more than the IH engines wore.
 
Hey another question pretty please...

I installed the bearings and it is running ok while I was at it I added an oil pressure guage. According to the manual it is supposed to have 45 + psi at "rated engine speed" which I assume is around 2500 rpm. I get around 35 psi is it time to panic, or should the old beast give me a few years still?

Thoughts, opinions please..
 
Those bearings looked really bad, as mentioned did you get the crank checked, what else did you replace?
 
without holes in the insert how is oil from the crank going to lube them. Oil from the crank goes thru the hole in the insert to lube the insert
 
(quoted from post at 00:28:31 05/28/18) Hey another question pretty please...

I installed the bearings and it is running ok while I was at it I added an oil pressure guage. According to the manual it is supposed to have 45 + psi at "rated engine speed" which I assume is around 2500 rpm. I get around 35 psi is it time to panic, or should the old beast give me a few years still?

Thoughts, opinions please..
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Have you rebuilt the oil pump. All oil pumps should have the bottom plate replaced or resurfaced, and if the mating gears have bottom side wear on them they should be replaced also. The C113 , C123, C135, C146, C153 series of engines all are bad for wear on the soft metal bottom plate of the oil pump. And get a new gasket and ensure the bolts are torqued down properly. Also did you replace the main bearings? They are probably just as worn as the rods and will pass oil easily.
 
Gene: Think about what you just said! Oil comes through the drilled shaft to the bearing weather it has a hole or not. The hole is for drilled rods to oil the wrist pin.
 
(quoted from post at 18:18:51 05/27/18) Those bearings looked really bad, as mentioned did you get the crank checked, what else did you replace?

I did not have the crank "checked" the bearings in the picture look worse than they actually are in my opinion, they are not oblong or worn to differing thicknesses, just ugly.
 
Thank you for the responses.


I did resurface the oil pump bottom plate and replaced the gasket (made a new one) according to the manual I have the clearance between the pump gears and the plate should be between 45-60 thousands of an inch, so my gasket material was approx. 50 thousands. The pump moves smoothly and doesn't bind I just assumed age was the reason for the lower pressure.

I did not replace the mains just the connecting rod bearings.

I was hoping to get some comparison numbers from others who have 2504s with gas engines for oil pressure. If all hope beyong a compleet rebuild is lost I will probbably just sell the beast and cut my losses.
 
You want .004 max clearance, not . 050. I always assemble with thinnest gasket that will allow pump to turn freely and that is often less than .004. Those gaskets are thinner than normal typing paper.
 
Maybe that explains the 35 PSI dangit, I swear the manual called for the 45 - 50 thousands clearance. I am beginning to become an artist at removing and installing that oil pan LOL.

Thanks for the info!
 
Would you happen to have a link to a place I can purchase replacement gaskets for the oil pump? Making the one I did was ok but I imagine making them from thinner materials will be difficult.

Thank You.
 
Shown in CASEIH parts book for only $6.55l each. I would just make one out of a thin piece of paper.
 

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