Farmall 560 Diesel engine noise

dsp

Member
Hi guys,
I've been lurking around here for years but just joined since a problem cropped up on our 560 diesel and I could really use some help. Just started it up the other day for the first time in a couple months noticed a strange noise at idle. It's much less noticeable when given some throttle but is very noticeable at idle and seems loudest when on the left side of the tractor around the top end. When you shut the engine off, before it comes to a complete stop you can hear the noise more clearly and it sounds like a sharp rushing of air, not metallic in nature. Kind of like a loud TSSCHHH, that gets softer as the engine comes to a stop. Tractor seems to start fine, slight greyish smoke that clears up as soon as it warms up, runs and idles as smoothly as always except for the addition of the noise it never had. Oil was changed a few months ago is is still clear/amber with no water or metal that I can see, coolant looks perfect. Oil pressure stays good and temperature doesn't go above warm. I'm used to working on gas cars/trucks and our old 300, but not sure where to start with this one. I can get a hold of a diesel compression tester, but I'm not familiar with the procedure. What should be removed and where does it screw into? Will I need to find a special adapter that fits these old International diesels? I also have a leak down tester, is there anything different involved in using it on these engines? I haven't tried cracking the fuel lines at the injectors yet. Valves haven't been adjusted for the past few years since she always runs so beautifully. Any other test/checks you guys would recommend? Any and all help will be GREATLY appreciated. We are currently re-roofing our 100yr+ old farmhouse and funds are definitely limited. I really hate that dang Murphy and his stupid law.
Thanks in advance,
Dan
 
First, remove valve cover and check for a bent pushrod, a pushrod out of place, or a valve stuck open/down, or anything else out of the ordinary in that area.
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:11 07/16/18) First, remove valve cover and check for a bent pushrod, a pushrod out of place, or a valve stuck open/down, or anything else out of the ordinary in that area.

It's going to be pain to remove the tank since it is completely filled up, can any of what you mentioned be checked by removing the side cover? I really don't want to try getting the valve cover off with the tank still in since there is loose paint and rust on that sheet metal panel attached to the fuel tank that I don't need falling into the valve train.
 
I'd not hesitate to pressure wash or blow dirt/ rust out
of the upper engine & fuel tank area. Clean it up, & then
remove the valve cover like Bob suggested.

Something will show up in the valve / rocker arm /
pushrod area.
Jim
 
Even if you FOUND an issue under the side cover (bent pushrod, for example), no repairs can be made from there, valve cover still has to come off.

You must have some fuel jugs (or even another machine) that you can siphon or pump the fuel into???
 
Don't believe you HAVE to take the tank off.
You might have to take off the intake manifold &
maybe an air cleaner hose, but nothing compared
to taking the tank off.
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 16:13:09 07/16/18)
(quoted from post at 12:57:11 07/16/18) First, remove valve cover and check for a bent pushrod, a pushrod out of place, or a valve stuck open/down, or anything else out of the ordinary in that area.

It's going to be pain to remove the tank since it is completely filled up, can any of what you mentioned be checked by removing the side cover? I really don't want to try getting the valve cover off with the tank still in since there is loose paint and rust on that sheet metal panel attached to the fuel tank that I don't need falling into the valve train.

You can get the cover off enough to see in, may have to remove intake manifold, could remove side plate to inspect push rods too.

Mine broke a rocker last year, #6 so off with the tank......
 
Unfortunately I don't have a pressure washer and neither does anyone I know. I have plenty of fuel cans, I just haven't had to use my siphons/pumps in a long time and none of them now work. Unfortunately my spare bulbs were dried out/cracked as well. Time for a quick dinner, then a 45 minute trip to town to find a working siphon.
 
You don't have to take the fuel tank off to remove the valve cover. I have did in frame over hauls with tank on. All you have to do is remove the fuel tank support bolts from clutch housing and take two bolts out from air intake. Put a pry bar between tank and clutch housing and put a 2x4 or 4x4 between tank and housing. Will have to take some side tin off and hood off course.
 
If the engine is run on a light load the exhaust ports in the head can carbon up. This can make a sound like you describe. Remove the exhaust manifold to check. Watch the rocker arms to make sure the valves are closed and clean out the carbon.
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:19 07/16/18) If the engine is run on a light load the exhaust ports in the head can carbon up. This can make a sound like you describe. Remove the exhaust manifold to check. Watch the rocker arms to make sure the valves are closed and clean out the carbon.

Well, that does give me something else to check after I pull the valve cover. This tractor does spend quite a bit of time just off idle running a prince pump powered 3pt log splitter. One thing though, do these engines have a habit of breaking off the exhaust manifold fasteners or do they generally come off without issue? Also, thanks THolmer for the tip about the tank. Hopefully I can get to it within the next couple days, in between the 200 other things that need to be done.

Thank you all for your help so far.
 
Update: I went ahead and popped the push rod cover off since it was quick to do, already leaking and some of the screws were loose. Looks like at least 5 of the push rods have at least a slight bend. Some are barely noticeable when turned, but the first rod on #2 cylinder is really noticeable when turned. Who knows what else I'll find under the valve cover. Kinda sucks since the thing still runs so smooth and starts without the glow plugs.
 
you need to remove valve cover to inspect for wear. pushrods can be straightened when no spares around. also set the valve lash to .027 hot once cover is off.if doing it at room temp give them .028 or .029 only time to remove side cover is when relacing gasket or valve lifters.also the time to check the rocker for wear where valve stem contacts rocker. mostly caused by running loose clearances.and check rocker bushings for wear.it could have had some sticky valves if tractor has sat for some time to bend the rods. that means valve guides cant be worn.
 
(quoted from post at 16:47:06 07/17/18) you need to remove valve cover to inspect for wear. pushrods can be straightened when no spares around. also set the valve lash to .027 hot once cover is off.if doing it at room temp give them .028 or .029 only time to remove side cover is when relacing gasket or valve lifters.also the time to check the rocker for wear where valve stem contacts rocker. mostly caused by running loose clearances.and check rocker bushings for wear.it could have had some sticky valves if tractor has sat for some time to bend the rods. that means valve guides cant be worn.

I pulled the side cover first since I didn't have time today to do the valve cover and it was loose and leaking anyway. I'm going to try to get to the valve cover tomorrow. Thanks for the room temp valve clearances. Is there anyone that makes a substantially better quality head gasket for these motors than anyone else, or are they all the same? Also, where is a good place to get push rods(if available), or is it just standard procedure to straighten and reuse them.
 
I personally have never straightened them. If you have a tractor scrap yard near or I just glanced on ebay and there are some listed there.
 
Okay, head is definitely going to need to be pulled. On the rear of the head facing the fuel tank I found about a 1" chunk of head gasket missing. If the engine's running you can feel warm air coming from the missing section. Are there any brand of head gasket for this engine(UD282) recommended over any other? Also, does anyone know of any experienced and competent diesel cylinder head shops in the eastern OH, western PA region?
 

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