140 Hydraulics

P K Ouellet

New User
During disassembly for cleaning and installing new seals of the hydraulic cylinder and valves I have found I cannot remove the check valve bushings. There appears to be a freeze plug on the forward side of the hydraulic cylinder that may provide access to press or drive them out. Do I remove the freeze plug to gain access to the front of the bushings for removal? The parts and service manuals I have do not address this procedure. I have both I&T and International service manuals and parts manuals.
 
I"ve seen two solutions-

One guy slid a piece of rubber tubing over a bolt, (and they would have to be sized to fit within the bore), and ran a washer and nut down on the rubber to compress it and squeeze it out to the side to grip the bushing, and extracted it like that.

Me, I happened to have a piece of rubber tubing that slid tightly onto the long stem of an allen wrench, (covering the end of the wrench), and I stuck that into the bore of the bushing, "torqued" it sideways so it was "wedged" in the bushing and pulled, and the bushing came out pretty slick.

Either way, make sure you don"t scratch up the inner bore.

Maybe someone will chime in with another method. Let us know how it goes!
 
Well, I was the guy with the bolt and the tubing. Something you might try as an improvement is to use some aerosol brake cleaner to remove the oil from the inside of the check valve bushing which should make them a little easier to grip. Good luck, they're a pain! Sam
 
Hugh! Are you 'dissin' me? LOL!

Hey, I'm a "one-trick pony"!

All I know is my Super-A, it's the only tractor I have and all I'll probably ever have, (just the way she goes). But I took lots of pictures when I overhauled my engine, hydraulic block/pump, and rear brakes/seals, so I'm just trying to 'give back' some of the help I got here, and hope I'm not being a pain-in-the-*ss in the process.

I was so meticulous and asked so many questions and made sure I was doing it right that it took me upwards of 5 months to get it done, when most of you guys here could have had it finished in a weekend! LOL

But hey, I got through it and know what worked for me, and I might as well pass it on.

So PK, here's what I used to get out those bushings...

seat2.JPG


...and when I stuck it in the bore of the bushing, I 'torqued' it sideways so the tip grabbed inside the bore, and the side of the rubber grabbed the rear edge of the bushing (so no scratches), and while holding it 'torqued', I pulled back straight, and the bushings came right out.

One more thing that helped- a 'drag link' socket that I got from NAPA, to unscrew the 'Pressure Regulator Valve Seat'. About $13.

seat1.JPG


And Hugh, I love you, man! You have more knowledge in your left pinky that I will ever have the chance to accumulate in my lifetime.
 
Pete: I don't know if you realize this, first after owning 6 tractors with touch control, I've never had a touch control apart. Yes, I knock on wood everyday. Having owned at least one of these continuously for the past 50 years, I have tended the touch control oil level like a religion.

Secondly PK posted his question on Fri. night or early Sat. 24 hours went by and he didn't have an answer, I had to do something. I advised him there was good help here at YT, however they all must have been away for the weekend. I then advised PK to post his question again on Mon. I was right, it worked. You and Sam came alive. I know where Sam was, off increasing his knowledge about NEW IRON.
 
Don't worry too much about that. I got in a fair amount of talking about the old stuff too. I might also have bought a few books from Allan Haugh. Sometimes you have to take a look at the new ones to truly appreciate working on the old ones. When you're looking at a new tractor and you think "I wonder if that lump is the engine?" you have to start to wonder where things are going. Sam
 
Sam: Was Moncton a decent show? Was Allan down the for the show? To hear him talk around here at local shows, you'd think he had one leg in the grave. I understand we locals have to call ahead to make sure his home store is open. I stopped in there twice last summer looking for decals for my SA. Both times locked up and no one around.

I thought about calling you on the remote valve matter, however over the weekend I talked with a guy who has one. Going to take a look at that first. I may still call.
 
Hi Hugh, I would have said that Moncton was decent. I was up a couple of years ago (the last ag one) and there wasn't a whole lot new since then. However there were some people I wanted to see and some questions I needed to ask so it was worth the trip. Allan (or at least his business) was at the show, I don't know that I've ever met Allan so I couldn't say for sure. I bought a couple of Farmall books, one because it had a lot of pictures of tractors when they were new, a photo archive book featuring M's in their heyday(having bought that SMD) and a manual on rebuilding magneto's (as I'm currently trying to get a mag-equipped W-4 to go).

Feel free to give me a call about the hydraulics, I find it much easier to explain these things over the phone than by typing them out. I tried calling you a few times but couldn't get through.

Sam
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top