Splitting Farmall 100

NICK D

Member
I am trying to remove the engine from my Farmall 100 without success. I have tryed pry-bars and screwdrivers and can only get about a 1/4" gap. The tractor was making a grinding and rat-a-tat-tat noise upon depressing the clutch. Is the clutch facing froze on the splines? The tractor has been setting for about a year until I got the time to fix it. I am a little weary of getting to rough with it, because the bell housing is only setting on a jack stand and is not too study. Anyone have this problem? Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
I blocked the rear of mine with a couple jack stands and 4x4's. Got is close enough to shim it tight and let a little air out of the rears to sit firm. I then used a cherry picker on the front-end and slowly pryed it forward. Let it soak in some pb blaster overnight.
 
I would definitely find some good angle iron and secure it to the sides to make a solid stand for the rear. Pick the front of the tractor off the ground when you attach them to give the tractor an extremely slight angle upward (this will come in handy later). Then take some wieght off the stands by raising the front of the tractor with a cherry picker. Raise and lower the front of the tractor, prying in the gap between the engine and trans. The shaft and or bolts may be in a bind, this methods works great for me and usually have no problem getting it apart. Just be carefull that you don't get tooo crazy with the prying or raising and lowering.
 
I blocked mine with a single wooden block, on end. The block is about 12 " x 12", like a sill. To make sure the disconnected rear of the tractor didn't move, I used the front cultivator pieces wedged against the front of rear tires, and then strapped in place with a winch-up strap around each tire, and a block behind each rear tire.

ALSO BE CAREFUL --- when you disconnect the front axle, it is very heavy, and falls real real fast ! I had some dumb luck and didn't break a wrist or a hand when it fell.

I used the swing frame and a chain hoist from then on in the process
 
They can hang up on the guide pins just pry a little on each side till they clear they only stick out around 3/4in there is one on each side
 
I removed the dust cover and sprayed some WD-40 on the splined shaft. I will let it soak a little and try again. I got it split past the retaining pins to about 1/2" now. Slowly but surely.
 
I took some measurements last night and am going to make some supports to bolt to the side of the torque tube. I should be albe to get it split if I can wrestle it a little harder and not be afraid of having it land on me. Thanks.
 

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