Synthetic motor oil

How many of you are using it and what are your opinions? Also, what is your favorite brand, and what is your least favorite brand? And, do you use it in your old tractors?

I run both types.
Rotella 5w40 synthetic and Rotella 15w40 regular. So far great results in everything I have put the stuff in. Stays cleaner longer, great protection, fairly inexpensive in the gallon jugs or by the 55 gal drum.
We used to have a different oil for damn near everything, mostly Valvoline brand stuff. Then when we started adding diesels to the fleet Valvoline didn't really have anything that was designed for the job, so the Rotella worked so well, we just started using it for everything. If it will keep all those big rigs happy for a million miles or more, it really should keep everything else over protected.
The Shell rep was kind enough to send all the different test results for the Rotella, and it exceeds all the requirements of everything we use it in.

Years ago I drove a 67 Chrysler 440 engine which needed premium fuel. Super Shell with platformate (what ever that is) would give me 2 or 3 MPG more than other brands.

Well I don't know about that particular brand but my 99 Dodge Dually diesel gets 26 mpg running the Rotella synthetic. 469,000 miles on her now anyway. My 96 has 868,000 on it and gets 23 and 24 mpg on the regular Rotella 15/40.

Mobile 1 is what I run in all cars trucks,tractors and small engines.Excellent protective quality-binds itself to engine parts. To that end there is lubrication in place at all start ups,and tolerates cold weather better than conventionals.
Have also heard only good about Rotella.

Randy In Iowa

Mobil 1 synthetic in my two main vehicles and Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 in my overhauled H.

I'm very happy with how it's worked out for me so far. I change the H about every two years (around 75 hours or so) and I change the vehicles between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.

On the other hand, I've used regular dino oil in many different applications and never had a problem with it, either. BUT I changed my oil at 3,000 miles intervals, too.

I run Castrol synthetic in all my small aircooled engines. Good results so far and it only costs a bit more in them since I just change then once or twice a year and they hold small volumes.

I run it in them mainly becuase the syn stuff is supposed to handle high heat better and those little engines get hot.

I run regular oil in my larger vehicles. Castrol and Dello400.
One has 225,000 miles on it and the other one has 216,000 miles on it. I also use Fram oil filters Seriously.

I use Mobil 1 5W-20 in my 2001 Silverado, 119,000 miles, change it every 5000 miles. The 2008 Mini Cooper, 12,000 miles, gets Castrol 5W-20 (factory recommended) every 10,000 - 15,000 depending on oil life sensor. This is Mini's PM schedule and they change the oil for 4 years. The 1979 C20 gets Castrol HD30 whenever I think it needs it. Tractors get Castrol Tection 15W-40 dinosaur juice.

Small engines (air cooled) only get SAE 30. Kohler has a disclaimer on their products VOIDING the warranty it Multi-Viscosity oil is used. Experienced this personally with a JD 300 lawn tractor. Rebuilt the Kohler K-frame Industrial and bored engine .010" over. It lasted about 3 years before it started spewing oil out of the carb. The original engine lasted at least 15 years. I fed it Castrol 10W-40 and 20W-50 exclusive.

I think I am going to start using Royal Purple. We have used hyd oil in some hydraulic units and special grease on an automatic grease system in an Industrial Manufacturing Plant. Both assets show less wear than their counterparts and run cooler. My close friend's Step-Grandfather is the chemist that developed the polymer in Royal Purple's recipe many years ago.

Good luck
Charles

I have run Castrol Syntec 20-50 Synthetic since it came out. I used it in my trucks and in my cars. I have a truck( Ford 351) that has about 160000 on it and never a problem. My Lincoln town car and my jeep both run 10-=40. I have it in my 1951 M and 1941 A, both 20-50. Also use it( 10-30) in my two lawnmowers (21 HP) Briggs and Stratton. Nevere have ever had any engine problems Henry

Picking a brand is not nearly as important oil cleanliness. I won't get into the highly subjective issue of horse power and mileage gains. If you are looking at engine and component longevity there are a couple of things you should consider.

1) Prefilter your oil before putting it into the machine. The easiest way to do this is adding a filter manifold to your oil pump. Virtually everyone believes that oil out of the package is clean. There endless tests done by the Fluid Power Society (I am Fluid Power Certified and work for a Hydraulic componet manufacturer), SAE, and other testing agencies showing the difference in cleanliness before and after.

2) Oil filters. Again, there are numerous studies, and in the case of filters everyone is judged on the same set of rules. The best way to be sure your filter is working properly is to install a filter manifold with a gauge. As the filter clogs with dirt it causes a slight pressure drop. The drop in pressure is clearly shown on the gauge. Most gauges have a green and red area so that you don't have to remember by-pass pressure on the filter. When it goes red your filter is no longer filtering. The attached link is very good. It isn't all technical and I think the average guy will understand the points. It is regarding motorcycles but no matter. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters
If you look in a hydraulic filter catalog you will see the different filter media, and micron rating. Newer hydraulic components require specific oil cleanliness because the clearance of the parts are sometimes a few thousanths. For engine oil filters you will see in the article that Purolator Pure one is the best filter you can buy assuming you can find one that fits.

I'm not sold on it. My two pickups are running petroleum oils, one has 247K and the other has 180K, both running strong, had an old Volvo S/W that ran petroleum oil and it had 240K when I got rid of it. Had a Dodge Stratus on petroleum until the tranny went out at 226K. Running Mobil1 in my wife's Chrysler 300M and I'm worried it won't make 180K, though I wouldn't say the oil is causing any problems. I haven't seen that it's worth the extra expense so far.

I'm not sold on it. My two pickups are running petroleum oils, one has 247K and the other has 180K, both running strong, had an old Volvo S/W that ran petroleum oil and it had 240K when I got rid of it. Had a Dodge Stratus on petroleum until the tranny went out at 226K. Running Mobil1 in my wife's Chrysler 300M and I'm worried it won't make 180K, though I wouldn't say the oil is causing any problems. I haven't seen that it's worth the extra expense so far.

I was trying to stay out of these types of discussions, and for the most part on this one I am. You have some good info, and some old outdated info below. It will be up to you to make the final decision as to brand and type. I personally dont see any advantage to using it in say the engine, especially if youre just going to change it WHEN THE MANUFACTURER WANTS YOU TO! Trannys and rearends, YES. Old Farmalls, nope!

Rusty: I need to be convinced, I've read all the posts below.

I've looked at synthetic oils both cost and their claims of service. In motor oils, I was exceeding those claims with regular detergent diesel grade motor oils in the 1970s and 80s. I base this on 5 diesel tractors, 4 gas tractors, 4 gas trucks and one Oldsmobile. Near as I can tell synthetic is just an expensive way to maintain an engine. I've not looked at gear oils, etc.