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300 Wiring

C

Craig T

Member
We are restoring a 300 with factory 6v. We bought a new wiring harness from OEM and installed it according to the instructions.

The first time we tried to start it, the wire going from the "bat." term. on the reg to the gauge and the wire from the "L" term. to the starting switch both burned up when neither the switch nor the lights were on. We double checked the wiring and are sure we didn't hook them up wrong. We then got a new regulator and replaced the wires. We thought we had it fixed until today the same thing happened.

The tractor doesn"t turn over very well for the size of the new battery. We were wondering if a faulty solenoid on the starter could be causing our problems. Any information or advice is appreciated.
 
The people making those harnesses sometimes make mistakes -- check the beginning and end of those wires with a meter. The CaseIH harness I put on my 460U has a couple of wires that disappear into the harness and don't exit. Turns out they are not needed, but it took a while to figure that out. Also, use the diagram in the Operator's manual, if you aren't doing that already.
 
Here is a link to Bob M"s wiring diagrams. Double check what you have to what he has. Also ensure that the battery cables are 00 in size. They must be large diameter for 6 volt. They can"t be something taken off the wifes Mazda
Bob Ms Diagrams
 
The L terminal on the regulator is internally connected to the bat terminal. Thus both are places that will have (negative(hot))battery voltage applied when a battery is installed correctly. On your tractor the L terminal If you use it, should connect to the input terminal of the light switch, not the starter switch. If it was connected to the starter relay at the big terminal that is attached to the starter motor, it will burn immediately. The starter would be trying to operate using that #10 wire, and it would fry. Tell us more after looking over the diagrams. JimN
 
Nice Catch by Jim N there, when you check the wiring, the ammeter should have only one wire on its SUPPLY terminal and that gets hot ungrounded battery voltage, often via a wire to where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch/solenoid. The Ammeters other LOAD terminal is what wires to BAT on the Voltage Regulator. On the 3 terminal (BAT ARM FLD) VR's loads like lights/ignition also got their hot voltage feed off that same ammeter LOAD terminal BUT on 4 terminal VR's (BAT ARM FLD LOAD) their LOAD (L) terminal instead fed hot voltage to lights/ignition switches. I agree with Jim 100%, that L on VR feeds lights/ignition switches inputs its NOT wired to the battery/starter....

John T
 
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