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Farmall H will not run

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Working on a Farmall H. It does run as long as gas is sprayed in the carb. It won't stay running on it's own. Have had carb off several times for cleaning. New needle & seat. Everything else looks good. I'm sure there is something I am missing. Never had one give this much trouble. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Take off the bottom plug and ensure that there is a good flow, for a minute or more. Either the screen on the dirt separator is plugged, or the gas tank hole has crap plugging it up.. I'm assuming the float is adjusted to the right height and the float doesn't have a hole in it allowing it to be full of gas.
 
Have you checked fuel flow to the carb? If you disconnect the gas line going into the carb you should get a solid stream from the gas line. If not, check the screen into the settling bowl. Make sure that the screen is clean and that the settling bowl is not full of water. If you have good flow to the carb then it sounds like a carb adjustment issue. Is the float set right and does it work, no pin hole leak or anything? Are the internal passages clear? Have you set the adjusting screws external to the carb? Others will jump in here with other ideas.
 
Can you spray gas/carbcleaner etc. at other points and get it to pick up? If so, that would suggest a vacuum leak at either the carb or head end of the manifold?

If not, restricted fuel flow (crud, stuck float needle . . .) is more likely.
 
Did you have the fuel inlet fitting out? Is that cylinder shaped screen clean? Do you have full fuel flow to the carb from the tank? There is also a fine mesh screen in the top of the sediment bowl. Also, don't overlook the possibility of rust, crud, or some other foreign object in the tank that is restricting fuel flow.
 
Mostly expanding on what others have noted.

Assuming the float checks out (I had a different tractor whose carb would work great in your hand, but mount it and the float would bind as soon as you thought it was running good - real close fit to the carb casting; just had to tweek the level perfect) and you get gas flowing out the drain....does that have a beltpully?

If so, belt it to another tractor, get it turning over with the ignition on and check around for leaks with a can of ether. Then same deal with the adjustment screws (final tuning you'll want to disengage that pully). I like that better than cranking on the starter.

Else, I'm thinking you have a piece of rust or crud playing with the standpipe or sediment bowl (it lets gas flow just long enough for you to have confidence attaching the line then settles in again, but the bowl drain should tell this). Or crud well lodged in the jets.

Hey, are you the same Mike that frequented a mostly CUT forum? I haven't gotten around to posting or even lurking there in a while; Howdy!
 
There's a screen behind the tube fitting where your gas line is connected. You need to remove that fitting and see if the screen is plugged with rust and dirt.

If that's clean you need to hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor to see if there's good suction. You need good manifold vacuum to pull that fuel into the engine. Make sure the intake manifold is tight. Look down in the gas tank with a good flashlight and see if any rust is covering the bottom of the tank. Hold a clean container under the gas line to see if there's a full stream of gas. Not just a dribble. Then there's blockage between the gas line and tank if its just a dribble. Hal
 
Everything is clean in the tank, line & screen. Have good gas flow from the line. Replaced all manifold and carb gaskets. Good vacuum. Also engine has good compression everywhere, around 125psi. Did not check the carb drain. Something I didn't check, there is a small "screw" in the bowl of the carb. Was told this was the idle valve? I never had this out. Would that cause the motor not to start at all?
 
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