no spark at points

I have a super c positive ground, the switch has 6 volts, the coil has 6 volts on it the 6 volts are goining in on the neg side of coil to points.I hace unwired the condensor and also have replaced the coil but I dont think that was the problem since the points dont spark.I only have a didgital meter to work with. Thanks.

try and disconnect the wire from the coil that is going to the distributor. then with the points in the open position, check the wire with your meter on the ohm scale. it should show an open circuit, then with the meter still attached, rotate the engine by hand (ignition off) till the points close. it should read a closed circuit then. if it reads a closed circuit with the points open, something is grounding out. check the side of the distributor where the wire from the coil attaches, could be the insulation there is bad. also check for voltage at the coil terminal going to the distributor, you should get a reading there. if not coil could be bad.

Your problem could be as simple as dirty point. No spark at points about 75% of the time is because the points need cleaned or replaced
Hobby farm

I think Glenster is on to it. The bolt and nuts that go through the side of the distributor are stacked in this order (rememberance here) With the bolt out of the hole, a insulator with a snout goes into the hole from the inside, centering the stud. The stud is next, with a thin flat washer under a nut, from the inside out. A flat insulator goes on the outside of the housing. A thin flat washer goes on the outside next, then a nut. A little but more of the stud is inside than out, but not much.
Outside next is a flat washer, then the ring of the connection wire terminal end, then a flat washer, lock washer, and last nut.
On the inside (from the nut mentioned above)is a flat washer, then the spring from the points (some with a copper strip, some not) then the lead from the condenser, then a flat washer, then a lock washer, then the inside last nut. If this stud is touching, or allowing any part of the metal called out above to touch the dist. housing it will not work.
(the coil negative should be connected to the ignition sw, the positive is connected to the distributor. It will work the way it is but the spark will be compromised. let us know what happens! Seasons greetings. JimN

The only thing I can add to the excellant information you have received is that I have always been able to turn the distributor cam enough to open and close the points without having to turn the engine. If the rotor is not in the way leave it on for easier turning control. You could also arc or close the points with a screwdriver while watching the arc or lack there of.

Dell

I had a similar problem on a 200 that had been sitting for a while (years). When checking continunity through the distributor I found that I had voltage at the wire (new) on the outside of the distributor but no voltage on the stud. After I cleaned the stud I had fire. (The whole process took days and several post here seeking advice.) You might want to open the points and check for voltage at every stage, each end of the wire ring, the stud outside, the stud inside, then the point spring. Also check the ring for the condenser wire. Don't just assume that there is good contact from the wire to the stud or from the stud to the spring. Good luck! larry mcever

I have check and followed the advice I have recieved and have determined by useing the ohm meter after unhooking the wire on the dist. side of the coil and measuring the resistance at the adjustment side of the points they were not the same. It would change (open)when I turned the fan by hand. So I replace points again and now it is running. Thanks a bunch guys.

Well done and a nice present ! JimN