560 Gas Heat Exchanger Spring

First problem, this spring was $37 from CIH! No, its not gold, and yes it"s really small.

Can someone please send me a pic of how its installed, or a good detailed description? Which position should the counterweight be in? Vertical? Horizontal?

I finally have everything back together! New exhaust manifold, re-tapped intake manifold, new gaskets, and this is my last speed bump!

HELP


Thanks,

Matt

Now you would hit me with this so early in the morning ( head not screwed on wright yet), Yea they think that little bimetal spring is made of gold . And setting here trying to remember where the counter wright sets qwhen the butter fly is in the rest possession , i am thinking to the rear and when the engine revs up it move forward to allow the exhaust gasses to flow out .as for the spring the tang that goes on the pin faces forward and the butterfly should be in the closed possession. the spring hold tension on the butter fly for the closed possession. . Now a word to the wise here and this will save ya headaches DO NOT TIGHTEN UP THE 4 BOLT on the exhaust manifold till after ya have it bolted down to the head and tightened . Now there have been times that even then ya may have to have the two manifolds milled flat to get a good seal . Also make sure that in the intake manifold that the area below the butterfly is cleaned out of all carbon and rust as this will allow the heat riser to do it's job much better and allow for faster warm up of the intake .

Drove me nuts too (656 gas). I was installing replacement intake and exhaust manifolds and couldn't figure out which way to install the replacement spring. I used a propane torch to heat it up, watched it work while temporarily attached to shaft, etc. but it just never moved the flapper in the correct direction.

Eventually gave up trying to install it. Since I live where it's warmer I fabbed a thin sheet of steel to replace the gasket and totally sealed off the chamber. Bad idea (as a poster here warned me about immediately after I did it.) Took TOO long to warm up, even on a decent day.

This fall when timing the valves I gave it another go. Got the propane torch out again and studied the problem. Turns out either the spring WAS wrong or they forgot to put a bend in it. I added a little loop to the spring, (the loop you see going around the post that sticks out of the manifold) and it now works perfectly. If you are installing the shaft and a new plate at the same time be careful with the welder. I thought it would be smart to run a bead to attach the flapper to the shaft instead of just tacking it. WRONG. I warped the shaft a little and had to work it a while before it would let the counter weight do it's thing again. The attached pic was taken with the engine cold. You can just see the top of the counter-weight peaking out over the top of the exhust manifold.

Thanks TX656. That pic and knowing it was cold, was the help I needed to finish her up.
Did you have to adjust the idle or carb after replacing your manifolds? She idles awfully rough now.

Thanks again,

Matt

I don't think that this change caused any required change to my carb settings.

However, at the same time as I fixed the flapper I also adjusted the valves and retimed it. This is going to sound crazy but it runs so much smoother and got so much quieter after the valve adjustment that I have this feeling I lost some rpm's on the top end? At wide open throttle and no load she runs just a hair over rated PTO rpms.

I checked the governor adjustments and took out 1 turn of the link as per th manual with no noticable effect.

I need to ask my FIL or wife to watch the RPM's while I manually work the throttle plate to see what rpm's are without the governor in the loop. (although watching carb/governor linkages/springs work it it doesn't seem like anything is restricted or blocked.)

I also need to hook it up the disc and pull a couple passes to see if the power was affected or if its 'all in my head'.