300 clutch/TA

makin'hay · Apr 19, 2009

OK, I am not crazy. After I got the 300 going I tried to put her in gear with engine running. She wouldnt go. I had clutch in, T/A in direct (forward), at idle, after 10 or so seconds of trying to feather it into 1st, she slipped in gear and took off with clutch pushed in. I let clutch out and drove around the barn and after a half minute or so, clutch acted like it was slipping (pedal is out). After she stopped I pushed clutch IN and she took off !!! This happened a few more times just getting her back to shop. What the bejeesus happened? Everytime she would stall I would push in clutch and she would take off. I cant imagine it has anything to do with the T/A. I am thinking the engine clutch, the old guy I bought it from a couple months ago said he changed clutch, throw out bearing, and press. plate in 1991 and then never drove her. HELP Thanks

SDE · Apr 19, 2009

Have you checked the T/A adjustment? These two components have to be adjusted properly for them to work together and also independently of each other.

If they did not use this tractor after they changed the clutch, it is mostly likely because they had problems with it. Do you have a manual for it? The adjustment will most likely be the same as a 400 or SMTA.

makin'hay · Apr 19, 2009

He said he changed the clutch and never even started the tractor after that. Just ran out of time. He did say the old clutch was really bad and the pressure plate "fingers" were wore way down from the throw out bearing. If the clutch was that bad and they kept adjusting it over and over, I am wondering if when they put all the new stuff in it would need to be adjusted back again. I will try that and see. But what was happening was very strange. Thanks

CNKS · Apr 19, 2009

Pull the access cover off under the tractor to reveal the clutch (in your case, be sure the engine is OFF) and look at the fingers and the clearance between the fingers and throwout bearing, should be 1/8-1/4 inch. Have someone push the clutch in and out if you can't reach it, and see what it does. Adjust both the clutch and TA to specs, that requires a manual, unless someone wants to walk you thru it. Basically it is adjusted so that the engine and TA clutches release at about the same time. If that does not work, you need a rebuilt engine clutch and/or the TA needs to be rebuilt. I don't know what the previous owner did, never heard of your situation.

D Slater · Apr 19, 2009

I'm guessing there is something wrong at main clutch. Maybe loose parts. If you have a working T/A and the t/a clutch sliped it would just slow down. T/A clutch shouldn't affect getting the transmission to stop turning. If t/a is bad on low side and t/a clutch slipes tractor would stop. Operating rod from t/a handle is in the bottom hole of lever on side of housing?

Janicholson · Apr 19, 2009

I agree with the good advice below.
The clutch system and linkages may be on entirely wrong. Many local libraries have IT and Farmall manuals that can be Copied as needed. I recommend getting a blue ribbon service manual, and an IT manual as well as the owners manual. TA and clutch adjustment is just not a seat of the trousers affair. JimN

rustyfarmall · Apr 20, 2009

ANYTIME a new clutch is installed, adjustments MUST be made.

300 clutch/TA

makin'hay

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SDE

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makin'hay

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CNKS

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D Slater

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Janicholson

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rustyfarmall

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