Farmall 450 Dual Tires

I have farmall 450 that I want to dual the rear tires on for disking. I picked up a set of 15.5-38 clamp on duals. The tires on the tractor now are 15.5-38. What are some thoughts on this idea? Will it work? Is the tractor powerfull enough? Anything to watch out for? Any thoughts would be great. Thanks!

Jesse

Sure it will work. Installing dual tires on the rear was standard procedure 40 years ago, and still is. That 450 will pull that disk so much better that you'll wonder why you didn't do it a long time ago.

Post photos of it when you get the duals put on. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

We used duals on our pair of Super M's for disking/cultimulching for many years - the duals worked great. Ours were all 14.9's but there's no reason why 15.5's will not work.

Only problem we with the setup was the shop door got knocked off it's track a couple times from inattentive operators (which includes myself...) moving dual-equipped tractors in and out.

Go on youtube and search for "farmall." Sort by date. Within the last week, someone posted three videos of a Super MD with duals on it.

That'll show you how they did it before they invented snap-on duals. They used a separate wheel center for each tire. Inner ones dished in, outer ones dished out. There's barely enough room on the axle, but it works.

(quoted from post at 15:16:36 04/28/09) They used a separate wheel center for each tire. Inner ones dished in, outer ones dished out. There's barely enough room on the axle, but it works.

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That's how we did ours.

It'll work fine, and you'll like the results. After installing them and going to the field, check the turnbuckles for tightness after about 30 minutes of use.

Jesse: One word of advice, dump any calcium chloride. I had a 1066 20.8x38 singles, loaded with chloride. Everywhere it pulled the 22' disk or 24' cultivator, it left wheel tracks the tillage implements would not cover. Very annoying trying to drill or plant corn on that surface. The next year I dumped the chloride added another set of 20.8x38 as axle duals and the tractor actually pulled the implements better, leaving no wheel tracks behind.

Another thing some of my neighbors ran into with snap on duals. Loaded with chloride the duals broke that single cast hub. This was with 856, 966, etc. Your 450 wouldn't have the weight or exert the torque, but those cast centers are much lighter than a 856 or 966. If I were going to use chloride, I'd want axle duals. I've also heard tell of broken axles with axle duals and chloride. There is a limit to how much a tractor can pull without unlimited breakage.

It said right in a 1066 manual, do not make a maximum pull with duals on in any of the 3 lowest gears. Basically they are telling you not to add enough weight and tractoin so it can't spin. A tractor must have some slipage to cushion the power train.

Just watch yer wheels when ya turn 'cause now it's easier to get tangled up in the implement.

You're REALLY gonna like it set up that way. Just no comparison.

Allan

Hello everyone!

Thanks for all the advice! The biggest implement I own is a 3 bottom plow and a 10 foot disc. I do have calcium chloride in the main rear tires. Thanks for the warning Hugh on the chloride. What are your thoughts based on what I will be pulling? Should I still dump the chloride? I do have a spare set of cast hubs in case the worst happens. I know 20.8-38 has about 50-60 more gallons of chloride than a 15.5-38. Any more advice would be great. Thanks everyone, keep the comments comming!

Jesse

The weight of your fluid is now gonna be spread across 4 tires instead of two. I.E. Total footprint is doubled.

Therefore, unless you're farming pancake batter, don't think you'll have a problem.

Allan

Jesse: As Allan told you earlier you will love those duals for disking, same with field cultivator.

You probably want to keep the chloride for plowing, and your right lot less weight than 20.8x38. If your run duals much, chloride in one set will cause tires to wear at a different rate. I can tell you that within months of changing my 1066, I did the same with my 560 on 16.9x38, dumped chloride and went duals. I also dumped chloride in my 656 again 16.9x38 however I did not dual that one as I used it for drilling, planting, haybine, spraying and plowing. I did keep the chloride in Farmall 300 with 13.6x38, why you may ask, because it hauled wagons on hard roads, and it takes chloride to make a 300 as heavy over rear wheels as a 560 or 656 without chloride.

The old single wheels with lots of weight are still best on hard roads or frozen ground. One of the merriest tractor rides I ever had was 1066, on duals, with a 12 ton manure spreader pushing on frozen ground.

I will be putting the duals on this week, so I will let you all know how they work. What are your thoughts on using the duals in deeper snow in winter? Thanks!

Jesse

Jesse: Duals in winter, snow or no snow are terrible. I takes huge power to push them through deep snow, and on hard frozen ground the lbs/square inch is far too low, for good traction. It's the same with hard roads duals don't give ideal traction.

Duals have one purpose, reduce soil compaction in a field situation. They give great traction on plowed or tilled soil. You'll swear at them if using haying equipment.

Hugh, did they put chloride in the snap-on duals?

That'd explain the broken hubs.

MKirsch: Who knows, some folks will try just about anything. When I see duals and added weight involved, you know the guy isn't exactly a bucket of brains.

You should also notice it rides a little better, as it takes a hole twice as wide for the wheels to fall in them to throw you around.