Extension on M clutch arm.

Dr. Bert

Member
M Experts: I'm repainting an M for a friend and while cleaning it up, I noticed that it has a factory made extension on the clutch pressure plate arm (the one on the L side of the torque tube that points toward the ground) that lengthens that arm 2 inches. My 2 Ms do not have this. What is its significance? Does this tractor have a special clutch? Thanks
 
The M has a pretty stiff clutch pedal for smaller operators, this extension makes pedal push easier, increased leverage, however it also doesn't release clutch as much so sometimes is troublesome.
 
Pete 23: Thanks for the explanation. I did notice that you have to be very slow and careful while engaging the clutch, or it will grab. And since you mentioned it, the pedal travel is very short.
 
I am not 100% sure it was M & W, but that company did make a lot of upgrades and options for the Farmalls.

Again, not sure who made it, but the extension was an option that could be purchased to make it easier to work the clutch.

My dad put it on our old M when I was about 12 or 13 and was struggling to work the clutch.

He also put an M&W hand clutch on the same tractor, and Power steering. Made a good tractor for square baling.

I'll be starting it up this afternoon to do some odds and ends

Gene
 
The extension actually makes the clutch travel less sensitive to engaging faster. The force point is farther from the fulcrum point.
 
Must have an adjustment problem then because the pedal only has to be released from full depression a tiny bit and the clutch grabs and the tractor jerks forward.
 
The extension effectively makes the clutch pedal travel farther to do the same job. As a result the point at which it disengages (no longer drives the wheels)will be substantially farther from the resting position (foot off the pedal)
The test:
With the tractor off, and brakes locked.
stand next to the clutch pedal. Put your hand on the pedal and push it down (forward). As you push the clutch pedal arm will be pulling on an external return spring. The pedal should move easily with only this spring tension for very close to an inch, to an inch and an eighth. If it continues down with little resistance it is out of adjustment (freeplay) and needs to be adjusted to the range above. If it tightens up and gets substantially harder to push at the Inch range, then the freeplay is correct. Then the issue is why it has this exaggerated range of motion. One possible answer is partially sheared pins in the throwout fork to cross shaft. Another is a warped disk that is not letting the Pressure plate release unless it is pushed in too far (less likely). M clutches are hard to push. If you need the effort reducing lever, OK adjust to work as best as possible.

You state that the point of engagement is almost at the bottom, and it is jerky (most tractor clutches are jerky and designed to be delt a starting force equal to a drag race every time it is started under load. (If it were mine I would put the standard clutch lever(shorter)on it to see if it eased the engagement issue, or made it too hard to push. I was 140 pound teen driving them in the 60s, and it was not an issue then. Let us know. Jim
 
As an 80 pound 12 year old I had a heck of a time pushing the pedal of a spanking new (stiff) 49 M trying to shift on the go from 4th to 5th with the neighbor owner sitting on the rack of corn bundles hollering at me to get going. At any rate, I never liked the extensions much in later years but maybe would have appreciated it then. You may need to trim that free play a little to get enough movement of the clutch finger for a good release.
 

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