Removing crank pulley from Super C

Do I get a special tool to remove the bottom pulley (Pulley puller?) on a Super C. I am replacing the oil seal. Thanks

A puller and a gizmo I don't remember the name of that fits behind the pulley to keep it from breaking. The pulley itself can be very tight and the puller can break the inside lip. NAPA, etc has the puller and the gizmo.

bearing seperater

There is a thread entitled "Front Cover Removal" by Greenred several posts down--has a picture of the gizmo or bearing separator.

El Toro posted in a topic below a page from an I&T manual that shows what you need to remove that pulley.
Click Here

Here is the picture of puller I built to remove the pulley. I can't seem to find picture of it together, so I will take another one and post it on here for you. With this puller you use a hydraulic jack or porta-power to remove the pulley.

You can use 5/8" all-thread instead of 3/4"

Keith & Shawn (Gold Medal winner)


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bearing splitter is handy to have. here is my otc set.
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Untitled URL Link

One of these made by Bigdog or Keith's would do a better job using a bearing separator behind the pulley using a bottle jack or ram. Bigdog made his for a Cub. Hal

Mark, I used the bearing-splitter/puller method, (like in MN Scott's link) and it worked OK but some cautions...

First, the puller has to be big enough that the jaws sit on the splitter 'square'.
Then, while the jaws grab the splitter, the 'point' of the puller has to sit on something. I say this because in the process, I discovered that the end of my crank was both recessed, and threaded. (In my first look, it was so full of dirt and chaff that I couldn't see that). I didn't want to booger-up those threads. Scott's picture shows the point going through the pulley, but I don't know what it is leaning on. You have to decide where the point is going to lean. I solved it by running a bolt of sufficient length through the pulley and into those threads so it sat solidly, (the bolt head was a size that it would fit through the pulley as the pulley came off over it- the pulley is maybe 3+ inches long). Then, to keep the point of the puller from 'walking' around the top of the bolt, I drilled a 'divot' in the center of the bolt head, for the point to sit in.
Then I heated the pulley, but I had to crank on the ratchet WAY more than I thought prudent, as the pulley was REALLY stuck on the crank. Finally, with a LOUD *crack* (I thought I broke something) it started to move, and once it was 'broke' free, came off pretty easy after that.
All that said, the hydraulic method to get it off would be the way I'd go next time. My method really messed with my head for awhile trying to get it all right. I used hydraulics to get it back on, (and you have to think about possible damage to the thrust bearing on the crank depending on how you do it) but by then I had a clean crank and inner bore of the pulley, I had heated the pulley to 200 degrees in the oven when my wife wasn't home, and it slid on HUGELY more easily than it came off.

Two last things- if you can get a flashlight on your pulley- it has a thickened inner diameter. Make sure any 'pulling' effort stays on the thickened part, not the pulley lip, or it might crack.



Don't forget to look where the seal sits on the pulley. If it's worn, you'll need a speedi-sleeve.

Good luck!

You do jnow that the steering sector has to be removed to pull that pulley and when you get the pulley off check the journal to make sure the old seal hasnt left a groove in the pulley. You can get a heavier seal from Car Quest that is much better that the replacement on you will get over the counter.