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Farmall M overheating

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 47 Faramll M. Just put a 450 head with big valves on. I pulled it this past weekend and it overheated. Shut it off and just now getting to the time to look at it. I got it out today and drove it around for about 20 minutes and it overheated again. I am almost positive that there is no thermostat in it. I looked inside radiator when tractor was idling and there is water movement. NO bubbling thank the lord...I don't know if it it the water pump or what radiator clogged up. There are like little metallic floaties in it almost like copper color stuff inside with the water mixed in. It makes me wonder what that is. Any suggestions will be helpful.
 
I have an IH 300U that kept overheating last year while bush hogging tall weeds and scrub brush in 3rd gear wide open throttle. Tried everything and finally went to a thicker recored radiator to keep the temperature in normal range.

Please post how you fix the problem.
 
I have an IH 300U that kept overheating last year while bush hogging tall weeds and scrub brush in 3rd gear wide open throttle. Tried everything and finally went to a thicker recored radiator to keep the temperature in normal range.

Please post how you fix the problem.
 
is your fan belt tight i had the same problem with my m recently and i tightend the belt a little more and it cure the problem.
 
Did you clean your radiator? You can spin the fan all you want but if your raidator is dirty then oh well.
 
Did you clean your radiator? You can spin the fan all you want but if your raidator is dirty then oh well.
 
My M with a stock radiator and 4 1/8 bore runs cool as a cucumber even when pulling my disc. It did get warm once after I put it all back together from rebuilding the engine, and I pulled the thermostat to change it, thinking the new one I put in was bad. It turned out to be mouse fuzz in the thermostat housing barely letting water through. They must have gotten in the radiator while it was sitting in the shop. Also, if you don't have any thermostat at all in there, the water may not be slowed down enough to get cooled in the radiator. Also, check your timing, as too far advanced or retarded can cause overheating as well.
 
Check that water pump to make sure the impeller isn't worn off. The radiator made need to be rodded out if the tubes are blocked. If permanent antifreeze has been used and not changed will lose its rust inhibitor and start to work on the metal. I change it every other year. Heater cores in vehicles will get blocked & may start to leak inside the vehicle. Hal
 
Cory: You didn't tell us......
Was it also overheating BEFORE you swapped heads? If not, I'd say check out the 450 head as well as the head gasket compatibility.
mike
 
the M did not seem to be overheating I did not have a working heat gauge in it before the 450 head. I am guessing that the water pump is bad because there in no thermostat in it and I checked the flow this morning and there was barely any movement while looking inside radiator cap! Thanks for all who replied
 
I never like to see an engine equipped with a water pump being run with out a thermostat. You mess up the flow through the bypass system and the engine is engineered to provide different flow rates through larger and smaller passages in head and block that require a head of pressure to accomplish this. One reason when you put a water pump on a farmall C for instance , you need to change head gasket also as it has different sized passages than one for no water pump.
 
if the head gasket is on right, and you are seeing particles floating in the coolant, flush the cooling system first. also flush the block. there is a drain plug on the left side of the motor behind the governor, if its original, it will be a wing nut type head. the starting crank will fit on the cap to remove it. take the lower radiator hose off, the flush everything good with a garden hose and see what comes out. you can buy a commercial coolant system cleaner from napa, or use vinegar to get the rust and scale out. i .would go this route before tearing the motor down
could be a lot of rust got loosened up when the head was replaced and is plugging up the coolant passages.
 
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