H seal replacement dificulty?

I need to replace the break shaft seals and the seals at the break drum in my farmall h. It has band and drum and not disc breaks. Any tips? does the rear end have to come appart? Any other information you need please ask. Thanks all!

Band brake tips-H & M
Remove the pins holding the brake adjuster to the pedal & actuating lever. Loosen & lube them.
Remove the cap screws holding the brake cover; wiggle it & they should come off.
Note or draw a diagram of how the brake band is attached to the cam. Turn the cover over, shake, tap or whatever to get the 2 pins out. If you remove the outer lever & half-moon key the whole thing comes out.
Replace the band & be sure the brake cam pivot shaft works freely in the cover. Oil or grease the pivot the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
Remove the brake drum; do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal. The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.
Using punches, chisels, etc. collapse the old seal inward, if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out. Polish the sealing surface on the brake drum and re-assemble.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing. After installing the bands & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brakes firmly, lock them in place and adjust the set-screw on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set-screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake band from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.

Wayne pretty much covered it well. I would like to highlight/add to what he said.

I would make this bold and italics if I knew how...don't ask me how I know!
Do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal!!!!!! The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.

THE DOUBLE SEAL IS VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE!!! It is about 1" thick of metal and leather. It should come eventually.

ORDER AT LEAST 4 NEW SEALS The book only calls for two, but you might as well put two on each side. IMO there is room for three. I put one facing in and one facing out. This is what my service tech recommended. One seals the oil in and the other seals the contaminants out. Most guys just put both in normal since it is already relatively clean in there bc of the cover.

IF YOU REALLY WANT TO PULL THE AXLES you don't have to remove the lid like the service manual says. Remove the PTO and then reach in there with the wrench and have someone turn the axle with a pipe wrench. This will loosen the bolt. You can then just move your bull gears out of the way for removal of the bull pinion bearing carrier. DON'T FORGET TO ORDER ALL THOSE SEALS IF YOU TAKE THEM OFF!!! I hate waiting for parts.

It is not a nut holding the bull gears onto the axle in the 12/14 series tractors, it is a LARGE cotter pin