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Perpetual H float valve question

D

Dave in CT

Member
I've read a few posts to try to find a definite procedure to correct the flooding of my H's carb via the float valve. I don't have a problem with using the fuel shut-off on the sediment bowl at the end of the day. I would like to get float valve working well enough so it doesn't flood the carb inside of ten minutes of off time. Is this a hit-or-miss operation - some work well and others don't? Or has someone found a set series of steps that has delivered repeated good results? I'm not asking for any guarantee . . .
Some say the rubber seals are even worse than the brass.

Even something with a solenoid shut-off (if those exist) would be acceptable.
 
Never had a problem. Why do you think it's difficult... make sure the float is not "heavy" or bent. Install the seat and gasket and tighten TIGHT, then set float level that's all there's to not. NO special procedures, "black magic" or correct phase of the moon needed!

Oh, yeah, make sure tank is clean and screens are in place to keep crud out of the needle and seat.
 
(quoted from post at 10:52:33 08/13/09) Never had a problem. Why do you think it's difficult... make sure the float is not "heavy" or bent. Install the seat and gasket and tighten TIGHT, then set float level that's all there's to not. NO special procedures, "black magic" or correct phase of the moon needed!

Oh, yeah, make sure tank is clean and screens are in place to keep crud out of the needle and seat.
Click to expand...

OOOPS... that should read "Install the seat and gasket and tighten TIGHT, then set float level that's all there's to it.

Guess it's more difficult than I thought!
 

I've had a little trouble getting a NEW float valve to function correctly the FIRST time after installing it, and if the tractor sits for several months with gas in the carb there might be problems again, but I have NO problems at all with the 2 Hs that see regular once per week to once per month use. I never turn the fuel off at the sediment bowl on those 2 tractors.
 
In addition to the advice offered previously here’s a couple more tips:

If the float needle has a viton (“rubber”) tip make sure it is clean and smooth. If it is not, replace it (the smallest scratch or crack in the viton will cause it to leak).

However if the needle is all metal it may need to be “seated” for it to close leak-tight: Remove the remove the float assembly from throttle body. Turn the throttle body over and place it on a solid surface. Now drop the float needle into it’s seat and give the needle a couple GENTLE taps with a hammer. This will conform the brass seat to the steel needle.

Make sure also there’s nothing fouling the needle seat. The tiniest scrap of Teflon pipe tape or a single bit of hair caught in the seat will make it impossible to seal.

Finally make sure the float fits snugly on the pivot pin without binding - it should not move more than about 1/16” sideways from center. If it does gently squeeze the pivot ears closed as required. Also make sure when installed the float pontoons are centered in the bowl and that they are not rubbing anywhere against the bowl walls.

Good luck!
 
Many thanks for the posts. I jumped the gun to assume it was everywhere. I've seen it come up so often I thought it was symptomatic of the system.
 
Just to add my comments, make sure the float is nice and fat, a lot of them get compressed over the years from some one appling air pressure to carb. And like it has been said before on this forum, a lot of the new seats are not nice and round and will not seal. You can't use the viton tip needle to form them so you need a suitable tool to do the job, I use a pintle from an injection nozzle tip. A good sealing needle and seat will hold the tip of your tongue if you invert the carb and suck on the inlet fitting. If it don't hold it will leak. Float setting is 1 27/32 inch , and make sure pivot pin is free in float and pinched in hinge with no excessive side play . Gasket on nozzle can also cause carb to leak , but usually slowly. Have fun.
 
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