Farmall Cub snow blade fitting/converting to a Farmall A

Has any one converted a Farmall Cub snow blade to fit a Farmall A. I have the chance to pick one up and it looks almost identical to the A snow blade. I am thinking I may have to extend the plates that attach to the belly and the lift. Any thoughts out there.
 

The blade for a "A" is wider then the 54" cub blade. The mounting points on the back side of the cub blade are closer together then that of the "A" .
There is several backets that are wider on the "A" set up as opposed to the cub .

We just went threw this with a friends "A" and i have 2 cubs with snow blades.

To be honest with you it would be alot easer to find the correct blade and set up for that tractor as opposed to trying to convert a cub system.

If you put both blades and all there brackets side by side the differance is very plane to see.

One of the big differances is the front bolster on the "A" [below radiator ] is wider on your "A" then the cub. This is one of the key mounting points.

Now if you already have the plow system on the tractor and your only missing the blade then i would cut and reweld the brackets.

Your posting can be read both ways .


If your close to Michigan i know someone with the hole set up for a "100" which is the same. I don't know if it's for sale but he will never use it.
 
I have a manual lift; same one I use for lifting my cultivators. I am quite handy with welding and metal fabrication, so making or adapting brackets or plates to fit the wider and longer A should not be a big problem. I was already planing on extending the blade to about 66". I can pick up a complete Cub blade for $75 or an A blade for $$375.
 
James, where in Michigan. I'm located in mid east Michigan, lower Peninsula. Depending on where your Friend is and price if he wants to sell, It may be worthwhile to check it out.
 
Thought I would place this in the correct sequence! I have a manual lift; same one I use for lifting my cultivators. I am quite handy with welding and metal fabrication, so making or adapting brackets or plates to fit the wider and longer A should not be a big problem. I was already planing on extending the blade to about 66". I can pick up a complete Cub blade for $75 or an A blade for $$375. After my initial post, I went searching and I did find a post from a few years ago with a photo and description of someone doing this conversion. It looked pretty good.
 
(quoted from post at 21:07:07 08/20/09) Thought I would place this in the correct sequence! I have a manual lift; same one I use for lifting my cultivators. I am quite handy with welding and metal fabrication, so making or adapting brackets or plates to fit the wider and longer A should not be a big problem. I was already planing on extending the blade to about 66". I can pick up a complete Cub blade for $75 or an A blade for $$375. After my initial post, I went searching and I did find a post from a few years ago with a photo and description of someone doing this conversion. It looked pretty good.

If all that is true then what is your question? Get going!
 
At the time of my post I did not know of the earlier posts. However after searching back several years and studying several posts, I think I know what I am going to do. I also can purchase a 6 ft fairly heavy duty blade for $75 with out any brackets. I am going to fabricate brackets to attached to the rear hitch housing and either the bely mount or the front mount behind the steering box for the lift pivot point. The lift should not be a problem. I plan on adding spring tension to the blade for shock absorbing. Thanks to all who responded. I will post photos when I have it done.
 
gocartbuilder: Why don't you put the Cub snow blade on the gocart. I had a Super A blade many years ago, sold it as it wouldn't stand up to the punishment a Super A could dish out.

I then built my own 7' angle snow blade, 3 times the steel in it as the factory 5' blade. It does stand up to the service as does the tractor. It now has 20 Canadian winters on it, with not a single breakdown.
 

I added a rubber strip to the bottom of the blades. I used the cutting edge off a old county plow truck. The rubber is 1" thick and 8" wide, i let it hange down past the bottom edge 2".

With the rubber cutting edge it wont fall into cracks and won't scratch any surface.
You won't need springs.
Most road commision trucks use a rubber edge as to not destroy roads.

They set the rubber at 1" past the bottom for ice.

They set it at 3" for sloop. So i set it in between at 2" and it works great.


A new rubber cutting edge is like $600.00 and it is 8' long.

There is a company on Groesbeck high way in Roseville called NBC truck , they sell them.

Call and see what they have used or old that can no longer be used on road commision blades.

I got a new old style one for $100.00 that had been sitting for several years.
They are heavy !!! I cut it to size on the table saw with a coarse blade , i put the orignal cutting edge back on to hold it in place.

I have done 2 blades like this and there on there 3rd year and zero ware on the rubber.
 
Happens I have two friends who work for the local road commissions for two different counties as head of maintenance of the trucks. Think I will give them a call. Thanks for the advice.
 
My go cart probably would push it. 22 in rear tires and a 22 HP engine and heavy! However, Kids are having too much fun using it as a go cart.
 

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