Anyone ever here of this cure for rusty gas tank

I got an idea and wander if anyone has ever tried or heard of this. I have a magnet that is 1" thick 3/4" id 1 1/2" od my idea isto place the magnet in the bottom of the tank around the outlet for the strainer. Than it will catch the rust before it goes into the sediment bowl. I never run the fuel level in the tank to get low enough for the thickness to to be a problem. What do you guys think?

They put magnets on oil pan plugs from the factory. So what could it hurt.

But when the magnet gets full how you gonna get it out to clean it.

Gary

Sounds like it may help.
Another method is to use a piece of copper tubing and fit it into the sediment bowl inlet so gas is taken from about an inch off the bottom of the tank.
Pretty much the same method motorcycles used.

I would put the magnet in the tank but not around the outlet. You could hook a piece of copper wire to it so it can be removed to clean.

Take the tank off and clean the rust out out.Then get yourself a can of sealer.A gallon of muriatic acid and some acetone.A good cleaning with the muriatic acid followed by treating with the acetone and finally coating with the sealer and you will have a like new working tank.I have fought with rusty tanks for years but after repairing one like this,i'll never be aggravated with a rusty tank again.

I have a magnet with a string tied to it suspended fron the gas cap on a ferguson to-30.Ti has worked for me for a vey long time.

The tractor I got wasn't running because the sealer eventually moved down into the sediment bowl and clogged up the works.

tackhammertime: I cleaned my SA tank 20 years ago, rolled stones around in it then rinced, no coating added. The rust only becomes a problem when tractors are parked for months, low in fuel. Inside of tank rusts above fuel level, then when you start to use it, fuel washes rust off and it settles in bottom of tank, and eventually in the sediment bowl stem, where it plugs.

Having said this it is impossible to always have tank full. Then you have the full tank and gas get stale. I don't use my SA much in winter, try to keep it full of fuel. Come spring, I'll drain of half put it in another tractor and top them all up with fresh gas. Seems to work. You'll never have problems with working tractors.

In the winter of 2007-2008 I stripped and painted my SA. Tank was off tractor all winter, and empty at various places in my shop. In the summer of 2008, I did have some rust problem in sediment bowl stem, blew back on fuel line with air hose several times. This summer, I never had a problem, but I know there is still a bit of rust in there. Seems to be fine enough it's coming down to bowl, and I dump that about every 4 weeks. I'm assuming I din't have the larger hard flakes of rust this time as I did in 1989.

The magnet should work, you just need some way to pull it out for cleaning. As Gary said, most new machines have magnets in every reservoir; fuel tanks, transmissions, hydraulic systems, etc. I notice some cooling systems and windshield washers even have magnets. Magnets serve two purposes, they remove unwanted crap and let you see just if anything is grinding up inside that system.

Hugh is right on this one. A good cleaning and a compete blow out and you should be good to go.
I am not a fan of coatings and sealers for gas tanks.
I am a fan of inline filters made for gravity feed systems.(Let's not start that argument, it's about 50-50 for and against.)
The only problem I have ever had with clogged gas tanks is on tractors that I bought that way.
I did have one old rusty tank, I had my local welding wizard braze it up and used it for several years before I sold it.
Dell

And some rust (feric oxide varieties) are non magnetic! it will capture some. JimN