pre oiling new engine overhaul

Icuby · Oct 3, 2009

What are some methods to make sure that all parts are lubricted good before initial start up?
All parts were lubed when installed.

BigC · Oct 3, 2009

You could use a preoiler but it might be overkill. As long as you used assembly lube you'll be fine. You ca always crank it over with out the spark plugs (gas) or injectors (diesel)

Cameron Smith · Oct 3, 2009

I always use STP as an assembly lube and then tow it with the spark off or diesel supply shut off until the oil pressure is up to snuff on the gauge. Then turn on the fuel or spark and start it.

Jeff Z. · Oct 3, 2009

Put everthing together with assembly lube {grease}. NAPA. You can use cam lube on a new cam and lifters. With spark plugs out of the engine spin it over until you see some oil pressure on the gauge.

Bob Bancroft · Oct 3, 2009

Jeff Z has it right on. Once you've developed oil pressure before developing compression, you're good to go.

tractorsam · Oct 3, 2009

If it was all lubed prior to assembly and hasn't sat any length of time before the initial start up then hop in the seat and fire it up. Just be sure your engine oil pressure gauge is good and make sure it comes up before too long (it will take a little longer than normal but not too long). I've seen a freshly assembled engine run about 20min with no oil pressure (the fellow called me up to see what I thought as it didn't sound right to him - I assumed he'd checked the oil pressure when he first started it up, but after a short while I got there), afterwards I said we ought to tear it back down just in case. The crank was fine but two of the mains were starting to scuff pretty badly, the rest were almost OK.

I know it's not what everyone else is saying but my vote is fire it up, just make sure the oil pressure comes up. Sam

pete 23 · Oct 3, 2009

I'll just throw this in. Best way, preoiler, next best, crank without compression until oil pressure registers. Keep in mind though, the older engines use a bypass oil filtering system and as soon as pump gets hold of oil it will be sent directly to the gallery, but later engines with full flow filters need to fill that filter first so it takes them longer to pressurize oil gallery. Normally you won't have any problem just firing it up if you use a good assembly lube but that one time that you do is once too many.

Mark · Oct 3, 2009

You ever wonder what they do in engine factories?

I would bet, no more than necessary and I doubt that includes "pre-oiling/pre-pressurizing". I"d say if you put it together with STP or the like, to fill the crankcase with oil and let"er rip.

El Toro · Oct 4, 2009

For no longer than it takes I would use a 12 volt electric pump and pump engine oil into the oil gallery until oil pressure is shown on the oil pressure gauge. Then make your start. An old Wagner brake bleeder works fine too. Hal

Janicholson · Oct 4, 2009

El Toro is correct. If the pump has a tough time priming, it is a cheap insurance to prelube it. Even a pump oilcan and piece of hose into the oil pressure gauge fitting will work. Many Cubs will not prime unless packed on assembly with grease (split of tractor to get at the pump)or primed. JimN

pete 23 · Oct 4, 2009

I toured engine factory at Melrose Parks when IH was in about the second year of their automated computerized machining of bare cast blocks and head on the 300 and 400 series engines (D360 D-414,D-436 etc. When engine was fully assembled, it was filled with oil and run on a stand by a electric motor and checked for proper oil pressures and leaks. Can't remember how long they turned them but it was several minutes. They were never started and run at that point but don't know if they were run or not before being shipped to Farmall works. So, yes indeed they were preoiled.

pre oiling new engine overhaul

Icuby

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BigC

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Cameron Smith

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Jeff Z.

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Bob Bancroft

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tractorsam

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pete 23

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Mark

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El Toro

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Janicholson

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pete 23

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