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For Bob M re: M transmission yoke

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Bob, thanks for your input. Tried your procedure for removing yoke. The center flange has large hole in center, much larger than the socket, so what's the socket going to press against? Do you need to slide a piece of steel between socket and flange? Sorry for ignorance, but I'm not quite gettin this yet.
 
What Bob is saying is to use a socket smaller than the inside dia of that yoke and it will bear against the end of trans input shaft. I am wondering , how much play do you have on that shaft, up and down, if any amount you are basically wasteing your time putting a seal in . I almost always pull the whole input shaft assembly so you can do it right. More than likely the pilot bearing inside will be shot and both ball bearings on input shaft are loose. If you have a belt pulley attachment , you need to take that off also if doing this,(then throw the whole thing away and put a plate one top, I hate them darn things). Don't attempt to put input assembly back in without being able to make certain pilot bearing is getting into input properly. Just my way of doing things. I am going to add something else here. What I have seen several times when someone removes yoke and reinstalls it from underneath, is that the half moon key comes out of place, crawls up out of keyway and thus damaging the yoke. Just be extra careful that key stays in place.
 
I will add to Pete's advice that the the hole can be covered by a flat washer or other metal piece to cover the hole, and contact the socket. Sometimes we take for granted our own processes and thinking when we give advice. A flat piece of 3/8 " by 1" strip of steel with holes in it spaced the same as the yolk will also do it. Jim
 
Bruce - Last one I did (Super H) had only a small hole (1/2" or so) in the center flange - more than enough to catch the socket.

However if the center hole is larger than the socket OD you can always slip in a scrap of 1/4" or so thick flat stock to bridge the hole.
 
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