Poor Running Farmall 300

ed in cny

Member
I have a Farmall 300 that I have used yearly for pulling the drag in the small acreage I use for corn and vegetables I grow. I also use it for raking hay as well. It's in a very as is state. Tractor will start right up but always sputters. Not sure why. I have over the past couple years changed nearly everything to do with the problem. Here's a list: points, condenser, plugs, wires, battery, and rebuilt the carb. Thinking that one would do the trick but still sputtering. What would any of you think it may be?
Things to know about tractor:
1. Charging is either not working or just barely as battery needs to jump to start but will run all day.
2. Tractor is outside the barn (no room inside).
3. Has GM alt on it. Is under hood but may get some weather if the rain comes in just right.

Other than that the tractor has not been "dressed up" at all. She is in "as is" condition so to speak.
 
When I first got the B it sputtered like that and I took off the valve cover and adjusted per the manual. That cleared it up. An easy and cheap place to start if you have not already done so.
 
My philosophy is to fix the obvious known problems first and odds are that by fixing them the mysterious "gremlin" problems will be fixed at the same time...

Case in point, if you need to jump start the tractor to get it running, then the battery isn't in too good of shape. Weak battery means weak spark which could cause the tractor to run poorly. By ignoring the charging/starting problem and chasing after gremlins, you may well be wasting perfectly good time and money.

Try charging the battery up the night before you want to use it. It may well start right up on its own and run like a top!
 
If it is emitting black smoke while sputtering, then it is too rich. Probably needs the float level adjusted. The exhaust tells a lot......
mike
 
Thanks guys on the ideas. I haven't thought of the valve gap but have done so with other tractors and have had better results from that process with them. What's the gap I need to get? Am I finding TDC on #? piston or what? Someone able to run me through the process with this tractor?

I agree that maybe the battery could be the reason as well. However I am able to rule that out as it runs that way either way. I can tell when the life of the charge is going and when it's not. Agreed I could spend some time on the battery issue and will address that as well at some point.

As to any smoke out of the stack. I have to say that it's really clear or at least what a 50 + year old tractor can have. I see a hint of white smoke and am thinking it's oil bypass. That is only present when I have "give it the gas" and then it's back to clear. It really isn't much at all when I do anyways.
 
Turn the load screw on the carb (bottom front) out 1/2 turn at a time to see if it clears up. If not put it back where it was. A leaky intake manifold, or a internally cracked manifold can also cause a sputter that is hard to find. Jim
 

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