210 IH Swather Coil

Does anyone know what the part number was for the ignition coil on a 210 IH swather? Any help is appreciated.

396547R93 PACKAGE, ignition coil service, 93, 105, 203 combines 210, 230, 275, 375 windrower and 225 hay swathers, consists of (1) coil, (2) washer 120217, (2) nut 120614

You can look it up for yourself at the link below:
CIH parts lookup

Thank You Bob. I have now verified that I have the correct coil. The swather will run fine for about a half an hour, then will chug and sputter. We have gone through the points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor, coil, and carb has been gone through (float, needle valve and seat checked). Fuel sediment bowls and screens are clean. Tank has been drained and re-filled. Fuel shutoff solenoid on carb is working and fuel pump is not very old. Have been running 10% ethanol. Once it acts up we wait about 25 minutes and it will re-start fine and run for another half an hour. I'm now wondering if the gas in the metal lines is boiling and causing the problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Three ideas:
Check the fuel cap on the tank to assure it is vented.
Check the coil when it quits to assure it is not way too hot to touch (it can be hot, but not boiling hot.
Put split rubber tubing on the fuel lines to buffer some of the heat away from the steel.

Jim

Thanks Jim-

I cut out the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb and replaced it with rubber line. I will try it out soon on some oats. The fuel tank cap is clear and actually will "reverse vent" I guess you could say, as the fuel gets so hot that the tank becomes pressurized. Regarding the coil, I noticed it does get quite a bit hotter than the engine. Is this something to worry about/fix? The old coil had "12V use with external resistor" on it. I cannot locate any ballast resistor or resistance wire on the rig. It ran with that old coil for probably 20 seasons of light use (around 50-75 acres/year), but just within the past couple of years it has started acting up and getting worse. So that led me initially to changing the coil, but it hasn't changed things to my satisfaction (I used 12V coil 396547R93 which, as I understand, has internal resistance and is to be used with systems lacking external resistance, which is what I believe the C-153 engine is, and this is the coil part no. for this engine. The ignition system was fiddled with by a local mechanic nearly 20 years ago, so maybe he had something to do with putting on the old coil, but as to why it ran so well all of those years with that setup [no resistor and a coil which needed it] is a mystery to me). I have probably confused everyone, but that is the way I understand this to be. Any other comments or ideas are welcome.

I think your problem is the fuel vaporizing in the fuel line from the tank to the pump. You could try fabricating a heat shield between the engine and the fuel tank. A piece of sheet metal between the tank and engine can reduce the amount of heat transfer quite a bit. Using an electric fuel pump at the tank to keep the fuel under pressure will also help.

As far as the ignition system, if you have a 12 volt system with no visible resistor, it is quite possible that the necessary resistance is built into the wire between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. If you have two wires on the I terminal on the solenoid and only one wire at the coil, you have the resistance wire and need to use a six volt coil. Systems that have one wire on the I terminal on the solenoid will have two wires where they attach to the coil. One will come from the starter solenoid and the other from the ignition switch after running through a resistor block.

Owen-

Thanks for your input. I checked over the wiring, and it is as follows:

One heavy (~10 gauge) blue wire goes from the starter solenoid to the ammeter. This then goes to the ignition switch. When cold, nearly 0 ohms resistance along it.
One thinner (12-14 ga.) black wire comes off the same solenoid terminal as the thick wire. It goes to the third regulator terminal from the left (left being if the regulator were sitting upright and you had the terminals towards you).
One thin red wire goes from the ignition switch to the Bat terminal on the coil and also splices off to the center terminal on the regulator. No resistance measured along it either. By the way, this is the only wire going to the Bat terminal of the coil.
I should also mention that I checked the voltage off the Bat terminal of the coil with the ignition switch on and got about 11 volts.
This all leads me to conclude that there is no resistor in the wiring, unless it is in my new coil (part no. 396547R93), so this coil should work, right? The mystery for me is how did the old "12V use with primary resistance wire or external resistor" coil work for so long?
Thank You All
Lon M