(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Second day of cranking the A

E

Enar

Member
Well, day two of cranking my A has come and gone. I followed several of the suggestions I received. I took out each plug, put oil & a shot of starting fluid in each one. Didn't notice any gas on any of them. Took the lower half of the Zenith carb off and there is gas in the bowl. Blew brake cleaner through the little jets. Measured the distance the float is set at (perfect). (Applause not necessary) Sprayed SF in carb. Cranked a few times and it sputtered and turned over 3 or 4 times. Poured some gas into carb and cranked. It sputtered and coughed about the same as the SF. Repeated process several times to no avail. Am I missing something here?

BTW, the handle on my crank was broken at one time and welded. Now the weld is cracking or I should say the non-weld. Now I think I better go find a crank at Paquette's Historical Farmall Tractor Museum in Leesburg FL, about 10 miles from my home. Lucky me, I hope. Beautiful place. Over 80 Farmall's and IH's, all restored and running. And more being done all the time.
As I said before, any help will be appreciated.

Enar
 
Did you try to sand the points a little.Mine got some crud on them from sitting after a little cleaning it fired,let me know.
 
Thanks for the tip. It fires all right. Sounds good for about 2 seconds. I looked the points the other day and they seemed good. But I'm not averse to taking another look.
 
Depending on how long the tractor has been sitting....the valves will gunk up and even rust....which means that compression is low.....which means that starting without pulling the ole girl will be very hard too do.
I'd hook it up too a truck or another tractor and pull it and start it.....that turns the engine over alot faster and they usually pop right off.......once running, then adjust the carb settings and I'll bet you'll be pretty happy.
Be carefull hand cranking when putting fuel in the cylinders.....a small backfire could cause broken body parts!!!!.
 
apologies. I've been minding this thread and yesterday's on the fly.

A pull start might take care of it.

But double-check your plug wiring for rotor position and firing order. Out of order firing would act as you describe.

Otherwise it sounds a lot like a fuel problem. Check the gravity flow to the elbow that is the inlet to the carb. It should be steady. And check that your properly adjusted float isn't sticking.
 
Once again, thanks for the tips. I'll have to see if I can work out a pull with someone. But I'll check the firing order wiring again. I had the screw on 1 1/2 turns, but did close it a little. The fuel flow seems good.

I don't know how much I'll get done tomorrow. I have to take my bride of 47 years to the doctor for an injection in her back. Seems I kicked her down the stairs too much and now her back hurts. Women. Always something. LOL

Thanks again.
 
Another idea, related to fuel. Where you've had the carb off and been painting, too. Check out the gasket between the carb and manifold, and that they are torqued god'n'snug together. Same with manifold-to-head if you had that apart.

An air leak in any of those joints could make for the problem you're having. An easy test (Okay, not so easy if you're cranking by hand, but . . . call it part of the charm of the old darling) once yu're sure the ignition is squared away, is to crank while spraying a combustible around the joints mentioned. If it fires to run it means it is taking on fuel from a leak in that intake joint, which robs your carb of the vacuum it needs to do its job.
 
If you can make it fire by putting gas into the throat of the carb then you have a fuel issue. I'd guess a plugged passage in the carb. You may need to take it apart and blow compressed air or carb cleaner through every little hole you can find.

Rick
 
might be a weak condenser or ignition coil. have you checked the condition of spark? sould be a good blue. if red or orange, id give the old girl a good tune up with new points condenser and plugs. a rotor and cap with new copper core wires might be in order. at least you could elemanate those items. good luck, d.coleman
 
He says the plugs are dry.

STOP USING STARTING FLUID. That's a good way to "fix" the tractor so it'll never start no matter what you do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Hand cranking a Ford 600?
Replies
14
Views
853
Tinkering With Tim
T
O
IH 354 carb issue
Replies
12
Views
591
used red MN
U
guido
Picture of the day
Replies
4
Views
613
guido
guido
M
John Deere 1010 dozer not starting
Replies
6
Views
562
Dan in Ohio
Dan in Ohio
4
Am I the only one that ''Boils a Carb"?
Replies
14
Views
1K
40Mule
4
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top