I'm Leaking Diesel Fuel, Again!

FC Andy · Feb 25, 2011

Is there a trick to getting the "Banjo" fuel fitting on an 806 with Roosamaster pump to seal up? When I had the pump rebuilt 5 years ago, It came apart with nylon washers with o-rings. New washers were solid copper. They seem to seal for 6 months to a year, and go to leaking. Should I re-torque them after running a few hours? I noticed a few are leaking again, I replaced them last spring. Last set, I put them on, ran it a year, saw them leak. Tightened them, fine another year, leak again. Got tired of leak, replaced them. Another year, and leak. That's where I am now. GRRRR. Any Ideas guys? I really didn't think it should be that difficult. Thanks, Andy

Lou from Wi. · Feb 25, 2011

Just joking, How about replacing them every 6 months?Won't leak every year then. Just kidding.
Victor

Owen Aaland · Feb 25, 2011

Get the original style seals. There are two types of lines but both of them use the same nylon seal. One style uses a separate steel ring around the nylon seal and the other one has the steel rings built into the end of the line. Get the type you need and replace the copper gaskets.

soybeanjoe · Feb 25, 2011

If you want to cure the leaking go to your CIH dealer & buy the "new style" ings that have the plastic (nylon) inserts & metal o-ring. They are a little salty, about $4.95 ea IIRC compared to about 92¢ ea for the copper. IIRC originally the Roosamaster pumps used the copper washers but I never could keep them from eventually leaking. Seems you either over tighten them & they split or you don't get them tight enough & they leak. They later came out with steel washers but I never had much luck with them either

WE had the pump rebuilt on our old 806 last year & the pump shop sent it back with a set of copper & a set of steel rings. Case IH service manager recomended the plastic / o-ring style. So far they haven't leaked. They are a PITA to install as the insert will pop out for almost no reason. I solved that problem by putting a small dallop of super glue 180º apart in the inside grove of the metal ring.

pete 23 · Feb 25, 2011

I'm with Owen, get the teflon steel gaskets, they were a life saver in their original release for the 806. The 56 series used the line with a recess in the line and used just a teflon. Your engine might possibly have that style but I highly doubt it. The pump shops will most likely tell you to use copper and claim they are the recommended ones. I took the service bulletin right into pump shop to show him correct one. Also, the torque is not all that high on the teflon steel washer so don't over torque. Your IH dealer may be only place to get the correct gasket and they could look up the torque for you. NO fun putting those gaskets on the back side of that pump all the time.

FC Andy · Feb 25, 2011

Thanks, Guys, I questioned the difference in the washers when I had the pump re-built. Pump guy told me the copper ones were right. I guess not. If the parts guys have time tomorrow, it is the customer appreciation breakfast at my local IH dealer, so I'll inquire about the teflon / o-ring washers. Thanks again, -Andy

pete 23 · Feb 25, 2011

Just be carefull and be sure to get the teflon steel. My old boss sold a customer just the teflon washers that are for the 56 series, customer put them on and tightend them down, siezed the inj pump. So, I had the privledge of going out, taking pump off, rebuilding the pump and reinstalling all gratis(on boss ofcourse, not me). It is pretty easy for a partsman to get them mixed up and yes, some of them will argue with you. 670207C1 is correct number for an 806 and 156 inch pound of torque, (13 ft lbs).

I'm Leaking Diesel Fuel, Again!

FC Andy

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Lou from Wi.

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Owen Aaland

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soybeanjoe

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pete 23

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FC Andy

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pete 23

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