Super A, problem starting

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have read some postings about converting to 12v, most people seem to think this is not needed... I have a brand new battery, new 2-gauge cable to starter (starter runs good in garage, seems fine) but still can"t start the tractor. Could my ignition switch be grounded...? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Going to 12v doesent make a tractor start. Do you have gas running out of carb when you remove the drain plug should be a steady flow. remove the spark plugs now hook up the wires going to them and make sure they are grounded now with voltage to the dist when you turn on the sw and hit the starter you should have spark on all of them. Now if you have spark is it in time that would be next6 and when thast checks out it WILL START.
 
Do you have a mag or a distributor? As Gene suggested you need to check for battery voltage if have a distributor. Use a volt meter or test lite if you have a distributor. With the points open you should have voltage on both small terminals on your coil. You will need the ignition switch in the on
"position". No voltage there check your switch
terminal that feeds voltage to your coil. You may have a bad switch, broken wire or bad connection. If you have voltage clean your points until shiny. Clean the points if you have a mag as they don't need battery voltage. Hal
 
What is the problem? Doesn't the starter turn it over? 6 volt should have 0 or 00 cables. If it turns over , does it have spark? Need more information. We just started the 6 volt B that had been sitting all winter . The battery is at least 4 years old. Fired right up.
 
Yep, you need 0 or 00 gauge cables, also check to see if there is a mouse nest in the flywheel housing, I have had that twice on my tractor, and once on my friends, when a mouse nest is in there, it drags it around and jams the starter gear on the flywheel, cheap easy fix. Also if your ground wire is not bolted to one of the starter bolts, you are probably not getting a good ground. But first of all, we are all assuming that your engine turns freely, hopefully we are assuming correctly.
 
An IH starter with bushing going bad will drag on the housing and cause slow cranking. I also agree that 0 or 00 gauge cables are needed to conduct well at 6 volts. Use a pair of jumper cables with real #2 gauge copper wire (not 10gauge booster cables) to parallel the existing cable. If the added conductor makes it turn faster, that is the issue. Jim
 
2 gauge is plenty for that tractor, good connections are more important than gauge. Many on this forum seems to be stuck on 0 or 00, which I have never even seen, much less used. None of my 6 volt tractors (5) have any bigger than 2 gauge. If you suspect the switch, take it out and look at it. Mine had a loose wire that I found after checking everything else. Warning sign was trying to cut out occasionally while running. I should have checked that first.
 
Thank you very much for all the input. So here is the full scoop: Super A 1949, with a magneto (no distributor). The ground cable is original, braided... the starter cable is brand new 2 gauge. The battery is 6V. The fuel system seems fine, no back-up. The starter is good (tested at a garage) and the fly-wheel is in good shape (removed mouse nests with air compressor). I think that their is a problem with the electrical system and here is why: The tractor was able to be jumped, when I bought it in the yard and when it was taken off the trailer. I have somehow tripped the light-system which will not work and so I am wondering if the ignition switch is also tripped. The instrument panel has been re-worked a little... where the fuse-holder belongs is where the ignition switch is now... I am not sure how to proceed. Anymore ideas with details would be greatly appreciated
 
There is a heavy (10ga) wire from the starting switch going to the amp meter. From the amp meter other terminal there should be one wire going to the voltage regulator on the generator.
Another wire going to the light switch (or fuse hopefully) then to light switch.
because it has a mag no other wire should be connected. Use a test light to make sure these are as described and have voltage at all times.
Any disconnect is wrong, these terminals and wires are to be hot at all times, running or not. Jim
 
I forgot you have a mag. The ignition switch is to ground the mag/stop the engine when pushed in, otherwise it is live. To test the switch, remove the nut and wire on the side of the mag. If it starts, turn off the fuel to stop the tractor and fix/replace the switch. Otherwise do as Jim says as far as the wiring. Remember, with a mag to get it started you don't need any of the other wiring, although I realize you want to get it fixed as far as the lights, VR and generator.
 

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