My H has been setting for three years and we are trying to get it going but the engine won't turn over they are talkin of pulling and busting it loose. Is there a better way I really don't want it broke and have to overhaul it. I heard of a lube called essential to put in spark plug holes but can't find it. Can anyone help
- Thread starter B crick
- Start date
Take the starter off and use a bar on the flywheel ring gear. You can feel what is going on that way and not damage anything. Then if you can move it a trifle, put some oil of most any kind in the cylinders. You may have stuck valves along with stuck pistons and if you did pull it and it turns over , well, bang goes the valves, rockers and push rods or maybe head. Every one has their own secret loosening oil mixtures. They all work about the same.
glennster
Well-known Member
pull the spark plugs and squirt either automatic transmission fluid in there, or your favorite penetrating oil, pb blaster -kroil-ect, but not wd-40. let it soak for a few days, then put the tractor in 5th gear and rock the back tires back and forth. i have also set the rear tires on a short ramp and left it parked in 5th gear. when it breaks loose, the tractor will roll slowly down the ramp. i would not try and pull start a stuck motor. keep adding penetrant to the cylinders till she breaks loose
Always a lot of debate on this - you probably CAN just put some automatic transmission fluid in through the plug holes, let it sit for a while, then run it like nothing ever happened.
I'm personally a fan of pulling the head and lightly using a cylinder hone on whatever's visible in the cylinders if there's enough rust to justify doing this (which there probably is)
Then wipe it all clean, dump in some atf - let it sit - then try tapping the pistons down with a block of wood and a heavy hammer to free them up. Clean everything as much as possible and reasemble. (use a new head gasket)
Whatever way you go - be sure to change the oil a couple of times soon after starting it to get rid of all the junk.
One argument for going the easy route without removing the head is that the engine's so old it's going to have to be rebuilt sooner or later anyways. Taking a few miles off the cylinder walls probably isn't going to mean much in the grand scheme of things. They do use sleeves, so you're not hurting anything that isn't going to be replaced anyways.
I'm personally a fan of pulling the head and lightly using a cylinder hone on whatever's visible in the cylinders if there's enough rust to justify doing this (which there probably is)
Then wipe it all clean, dump in some atf - let it sit - then try tapping the pistons down with a block of wood and a heavy hammer to free them up. Clean everything as much as possible and reasemble. (use a new head gasket)
Whatever way you go - be sure to change the oil a couple of times soon after starting it to get rid of all the junk.
One argument for going the easy route without removing the head is that the engine's so old it's going to have to be rebuilt sooner or later anyways. Taking a few miles off the cylinder walls probably isn't going to mean much in the grand scheme of things. They do use sleeves, so you're not hurting anything that isn't going to be replaced anyways.
rustred
Well-known Member
definitly dont pull it. i have seen the sleeves broke off the top and pulled down. i do the same thing as jrsutton posted. that little tiny engine is only a 1/2 day project to get cleaned up properly. i dont believe in scraping the rings up and down in rust. even at the same time can remove valves from head and clean out rusty guides. with that rust in there just going to increase wear on parts faster.cant see myself waiting on a magic potion that i have never have luck with.the time to put oil in cyls. is when tractor is to be parked for extended time and keep exhuast covered all the time when tractor is not in use thus preventing stuck engines.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
First off fill in the blanks as to is it in a shed?? If out side was the exhaust covered. ETC. So that said does it or has it had water in the cylinders?? If no then ok fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit. NEVER EVER try to pull one to pop it free or yes something will free up and what does will cost you more then the whole tractor is worth. Yes I do know what I am doing 90% of the tractor I buy are locked up and 80% of them now run with out ever pulling the head. I fill them with ATF and let them sit. I always put the plugs back in but pull them to test if it has freed up. I use the starter only with a 12 volt battery and use short fast taps on the starter button and I never do that sitting on the machine so as to be able to see the crank pulley. If it moves any at all I keep hitting the button and some times pull the starter off so as to use a pry bar to back it back off a tad bit then go again. Been doing this now for over a decade
toymaker 27
Member
check the oil pan for anti freeze or water. i have not been able to free oil rings that have seised in place with anti freeze with out dismanteling the engine and using a block of wood and a 8 pound sledge to unseize the motor
Tom Fleming
Well-known Member
NEVER, EVER pull a tractor to free up a stuck engine. I bought an F-30 that someone did that to, and the #2 connecting rod looked like a pretzel. I finally sold that F-30 to someone for parts, and bought another one in better shape. Luckily, I broke even on that one.
Everyone has given very solid advice. Try the oil in the cylinders (ATF, PB blaster, Kroil, even diesel) and let it sit for a few days, a week or two is better.
Patience is an absolute necessity in freeing up a stuck engine, unless you are going to tear it down, or minimally take the head off. My Regular was dry-stuck, and I used PB Blaster in the plug holes. Let it sit for 2 weeks, then took the clutch cover and clutch off (it was junk with mouse nests anyway), and made up a bar that bolted to the fly wheel. Put a 4' piece of pipe on the bar, and in less than an hour, I had it freed up. I also look inside the cylinders through the plug holes with a bore light, and they were pretty clean, just a ring of slight rust where the pistons had been sitting for years.
good luck, but for the love of God, DO NOT PULL IT to beak it free.
Everyone has given very solid advice. Try the oil in the cylinders (ATF, PB blaster, Kroil, even diesel) and let it sit for a few days, a week or two is better.
Patience is an absolute necessity in freeing up a stuck engine, unless you are going to tear it down, or minimally take the head off. My Regular was dry-stuck, and I used PB Blaster in the plug holes. Let it sit for 2 weeks, then took the clutch cover and clutch off (it was junk with mouse nests anyway), and made up a bar that bolted to the fly wheel. Put a 4' piece of pipe on the bar, and in less than an hour, I had it freed up. I also look inside the cylinders through the plug holes with a bore light, and they were pretty clean, just a ring of slight rust where the pistons had been sitting for years.
good luck, but for the love of God, DO NOT PULL IT to beak it free.
gene bender
Well-known Member
Just quit messing around and pull the head. Then you can see why and where its stuck. Walls are probably messed up with some rust spots and need to be cleaned up
Thank you all very much. As I am getting up there in age and don't know the first thing on pulling an engine. As a girl my dad never taught me that. I think I will try the ATF or blast and see what happens but will not let the guys pull it. I only need it two or three months a year to move a little snow and gravel for my pens. Thank you all so very much for allyour advice.
Sounds reasonable. If it's only going to get some light occassional use, and you don't have any experience with pulling a cylinder head anyway, then your plan sounds like the best (if not only!) course of action.
It'll most likely work out just fine following some of the suggestions here.
Good luck with it.
Let us know how it goes.
It'll most likely work out just fine following some of the suggestions here.
Good luck with it.
Let us know how it goes.
Once you get the engine free and have finished using it for a long period of time remove the sparkplugs and squirt engine oil on top of the pistons then crank the engine over a few times.
Then squirt some more oil into the cylinders. I would keep it sheltered too from the weather. Hal
Then squirt some more oil into the cylinders. I would keep it sheltered too from the weather. Hal
Paul Shuler
Member
Just a thought, you might pull the starter off to make sure thats not what is stuck. Mine did that in June. Just started to loosen a bolt on the starter then there was a pop and everything was loose.
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