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Rust in tank

K

kopeck

Member
A little while ago I posted about my SM and how I thought I had a fuel problem. Well got into it this weekend and I found out what was going on...rust.

I drained the tank and got a light and gave it a really good look over, well as good as you can though the filler. It was very clean except for a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust.

My question is has anyone had much luck lining their own tanks or would I be better off bringing it to a shop and having it cleaned and lined.

Funny, I never knew the fuel storage didn't extend all the way to the back of the tank. It surprised me to find a partition in there, then again I never have filled this sucker up yet, just 5 gallons here or there for small jobs (I haven't had it all that long).

K
 
Haven't done it myself, but have known others who've had very good luck doing it themselves.

(on the other hand, I don't believe it costs too much to have it done - many motorcycle shops will do it)

Of course, the cheapest way to keep you tank free of rust is to always keep it full.
(if I can call keeping a gas tank full CHEAP)

Easier said than done of course.
 

Yeah, I know keeping it full would eliminate the condensation issue but from my experience old tractors are not the best a keep that gas in there once they're full. :p

I'll call the local radiator shop in the morning see what it's going to cost.

I just want to get it done right, I would hate to line it then have the liner fail a year or two down the road.

K
 
The baffle has openings, the gas goes to the rear of the tank. If you don't see much rust, I wouldn't mess with it, just clean the opening to the sediment bowl, and check the screen inside the fitting that attaches to the carb.
 
I've successfully lined a number of tractor gas tanks with a
product called "red kote" or some such. It really does work.
If you follow the directions carefully and thoroughly, you will
have, for all practical purposes, a plastic gas tank when you
are finished with the job. Just don't plan to use it right
away. Let the chemical dry completely before you add any
gas to the tank.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:44 08/21/11) The baffle has openings, the gas goes to the rear of the tank. If you don't see much rust, I wouldn't mess with it, just clean the opening to the sediment bowl, and check the screen inside the fitting that attaches to the carb.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, I couldn't see how you could get 20 gallons in such a small space.

Are the baffles near the bottom of the tank? I would think they would be, I'll have to take a closer look.

I'm somewhat torn on what to do. I called the local radiator shop and he would be happy to do it but due to the divided tank the only way he would work on the tank is if he cut an access hole so he could see all the compartments. Pretty much the more he talked the more the price when up. I know that in order to guaranty his work he has to do what he has to do but I'm not to keen on cutting the tank up.

I also don't want to have to deal with this every other year either.

I'm looking at the POR-15 kit, has anyone tried it?

K
 
I have to lean the same way CNKS is on this. If you really only have "a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust" and no big chunks sloshing around, I would rinse it out to remove any loose rust and use it. It will be years before it gives you more trouble. In the meanwhile, that is what the sediment bowl is for.
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:49 08/22/11) I have to lean the same way CNKS is on this. If you really only have "a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust" and no big chunks sloshing around, I would rinse it out to remove any loose rust and use it. It will be years before it gives you more trouble. In the meanwhile, that is what the sediment bowl is for.
Click to expand...

There are some chunks though... Not a bad as I've seen in some tanks but still enough to worry me. Maybe I'll wash it out and then keep an eye on it and go from there.

K
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:49 08/22/11) I have to lean the same way CNKS is on this. If you really only have "a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust" and no big chunks sloshing around, I would rinse it out to remove any loose rust and use it. It will be years before it gives you more trouble. In the meanwhile, that is what the sediment bowl is for.
Click to expand...

Make that 3 of us that agree, and I'm here to tell you that the sediment bowl will catch every bit of the rust, even from a severely rusted tank, and none of it will ever get as far as the carburetor. That red-cote stuff or any other brand of fuel tank liner is way over-rated. You don't need it.
 
(quoted from post at 08:46:29 08/22/11)
(quoted from post at 08:25:49 08/22/11) I have to lean the same way CNKS is on this. If you really only have "a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust" and no big chunks sloshing around, I would rinse it out to remove any loose rust and use it. It will be years before it gives you more trouble. In the meanwhile, that is what the sediment bowl is for.
Click to expand...

Make that 3 of us that agree, and I'm here to tell you that the sediment bowl will catch every bit of the rust, even from a severely rusted tank, and none of it will ever get as far as the carburetor. That red-cote stuff or any other brand of fuel tank liner is way over-rated. You don't need it.
Click to expand...

OK, you guys have convinced me, I'll save my money. I'll flush the thing out and keep an eye on it. I'll also try to keep more fuel in which should help keep the water out.

I did find a bit of rust in the carb, hopefully now that it's all cleaned out I'll be in good shape.

Thanks,

K
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:43 08/22/11)
(quoted from post at 08:46:29 08/22/11)
(quoted from post at 08:25:49 08/22/11) I have to lean the same way CNKS is on this. If you really only have "a section in the rear of the tank that just had a strip of rust" and no big chunks sloshing around, I would rinse it out to remove any loose rust and use it. It will be years before it gives you more trouble. In the meanwhile, that is what the sediment bowl is for.
Click to expand...

Make that 3 of us that agree, and I'm here to tell you that the sediment bowl will catch every bit of the rust, even from a severely rusted tank, and none of it will ever get as far as the carburetor. That red-cote stuff or any other brand of fuel tank liner is way over-rated. You don't need it.
Click to expand...

You guys have convinced me too about the Red Kote liner. I think I will just start washing my tanks out with Muric Acid (and Acetone if they have varnish) from now on. Then I will let them dry for a few days and put them back on. It will definitely keep costs down, which is what I want. THANKS!
OK, you guys have convinced me, I'll save my money. I'll flush the thing out and keep an eye on it. I'll also try to keep more fuel in which should help keep the water out.

I did find a bit of rust in the carb, hopefully now that it's all cleaned out I'll be in good shape.

Thanks,

K
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 13:08:17 08/22/11)
Sorry for putting my post within the other. My mistake.
Click to expand...

Not sure that's worthy of being sorry about. :)

I used my magnet to "suck" most of the rust out, at least all the big chunks. All that's left is a little tiny bit of the small stuff, I flush that out and get a new screen for the bowl (it had a hole in it) and a gasket and put it back together and give it a go.

Just waiting on the gasket kit for me carburetor now.

K
 
K,
I just went through my tank after it sat for 15 years. When I first looked in it I was sure I would have to line it. It looked to me to be very rusty. But I tried that on an old Suzuki tank with disastrous results. Besides, there is a baffle in your tank (as you know) that I think would not allow you to get a good "flow" of the lining goo. What I did was to soak the tank with a gallon of lacquer thinner. (Don't forget to plug the hole in the bottom first :))I swished it around every so often for 3 days. When I dumped it out I couldn't believe the crud that came out. It turns out that my "rust" (it really looked just like rust) was shellac from 50 years of gas evaporating. Then I used a commercial steam cleaner (not just a pressure washer, you need the heat) set at 300 degrees and sprayed the s**t out of it through both holes. When I look inside it now it looks like it's brand new.
Hope this helps
Dave
 
I've lined both of my farmall's tanks (B and H) with Northern Fuel tank liner. Stay far away from the guys that tell you you'll have to cut a hole in the tank to line a baffled tank, don't let them hack up a good original tank.

All you need to do is thin the liner material down about 20%, Northern recommends using MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) or Acetone. Just mix 6 or 7 ounces into a quart of liner until its smooth, then it will be thin enough to flow past the baffles just fine. Just tape up the openings in the tank and tilt it all directions for a few minutes until you've coated all internal surfaces, then pour out the excess. To achieve the same thickness of liner, you'll need to do 2 coats of thinned liner.

The most important part is let it cure properly... most of the problems people have with fuel tank liners is they don't let it cure long enough before filling it with gas, and the liner dissolves. I let mine set for a couple days between coats, and a full week after the second coat before filling with gas.
 
Listen,
Once you clean out that tank with any number of suggestions, you will be good to go for another 20 years. Don"t get all hung up on the liners etc...
 
Just clean the tank with any of the methods
above, let it dry out good.
Then put a big magnet on the outside bottom of the tank,
where the rust is,
and run it.
I break apart old speakers to get a powerful magnet
that is flat and round.
After you pick the spot, spray some paint on the magnet.
No one has ever noticed them on my tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 05:35:05 08/24/11) Just clean the tank with any of the methods
above, let it dry out good.
Then put a big magnet on the outside bottom of the tank,
where the rust is,
and run it.
I break apart old speakers to get a powerful magnet
that is flat and round.
After you pick the spot, spray some paint on the magnet.
No one has ever noticed them on my tractors.
Click to expand...

I was just fixing to post the same thing!
 
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