pulling sleeves from F-20 block

SDE · Nov 6, 2011

I am removing these sleeves with the intention of installing them into another block. I made a disc that mounts under the sleeve and I am using a threaded 5/8" rod with bridging above the block. I don't know how long this engine has sat like this. It may have been at ten years or more. How much pressure will I need to apply to get it to move the sleeves up? Can a person apply to much pressure and break the bottom of the sleeve? The reason I ask is that the original sleeves for the block I am going to use, were damaged at the bottom and I don't want that to happen to the replacement sleeves.Or do I need to use a block of wood and a BFH from the bottom also? I do not have an engine stand, so working both top and bottom will be more difficult.
Thank you Steve

Old-F20 · Nov 6, 2011

i made a jig to hold blocks upside down and use them in my shop press. on more than one occasion i have completely maxed out a 20 to press to get them to pop loose. if they've sat a long time without having coolant in them they seem to be worse.

point3dave · Nov 6, 2011

I work for a Yard that resells old Case parts. We use a rig like yours, but use a air impact wrench, while tapping on the side of the block with a hammer. once in awhile we brake one, but are usually sucessful. Dave

Nebraska Cowman · Nov 6, 2011

5/8 rod is kinda spindly. It will stretch and absorb the pull. I'd use at least 3/4 As long as your disc fits the bottom you won't hurt anything. The factory puller is just a two sided affair and you have to make sure to get it started square or the bottom of the sleeve splits like a chicken. They pull hard. I tighten the nut down all I think it will stand, then go have a cup of coffee. Pretty soon it will start to come.

SDE · Nov 7, 2011

Thank you everyone for answering my questions. I think I will put a pipe (cheater) on my wrench and add some more pressure to it and take a wait and see approach. If it doesn't move on it own, I will lay it on it side and put a block of wood and a presuader to the bottom side.
Steve

JRSutton · Nov 7, 2011

I'll add that you should but some grease on your threaded rod.

Obvious to some, but I've noticed a lot of people overlook that simple step.

Just makes it so much easier, and keeps the heat and distortion down to a minimum when you get real tight.

Drives me crazy seeing guys cranking a dry puller while it's squeaking and squealing in pain.

5/8 rod might be a little on the thin side, but if it's greased up good, it should do the trick.

SDE · Nov 7, 2011

I was going to do that, but I forgot. Thank you for the reminder
Steve
Heading out now to crank on it a little more.

pulling sleeves from F-20 block

SDE

Well-known Member

Old-F20

Member

point3dave

Member

Nebraska Cowman

Well-known Member

SDE

Well-known Member

JRSutton

Well-known Member

SDE

Well-known Member

Similar threads