Farmall H power problem

still having power / pulling problems with Kerosene H, i'm hoping some of you guys might know what could be wrong? I should probably say what I've checked already .
Correct (new) spark plugs fitted.
Same problem occurs whether running on straight petrol or kero.
Had head worked and piston rings replaced last year.
had carb apart and cleaned it.

the problem is it wont pull in 5th gear if there is even slight hill, and when shifting from 4th 5th on dead level ground you need to ride the clutch to get going and even still takes ages to build up speed.

any ideas? Could it be a governor problem?
 
(quoted from post at 07:05:44 12/12/11) still having power / pulling problems with Kerosene H, i'm hoping some of you guys might know what could be wrong? I should probably say what I've checked already .
Correct (new) spark plugs fitted.
Same problem occurs whether running on straight petrol or kero.
Had head worked and piston rings replaced last year.
had carb apart and cleaned it.

the problem is it wont pull in 5th gear if there is even slight hill, and when shifting from 4th 5th on dead level ground you need to ride the clutch to get going and even still takes ages to build up speed.

any ideas? Could it be a governor problem?

Ignition timing. You need to advance it. I've never been able to time an H according to the book and get it to run right. I time it by "ear", and "seat-of-the-pants"
 
Have you opened the main jet adjustment screw near the bottom of the carb? This will enrich the fuel mixture. Even my old Toro mower and Wards garden tractor have that feature. Hal
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5th is direct drive so you have to let the clutch out slowly, and it will not pick up speed rapidly, although "ages" is too long. A few seconds is more like it. It will always be pulled down on a hill.
 
its a magneto ign system and ive tried but advancing and retarding to both ends of the extreme and made no difference - also tried opening main jet and it just smokes then but still no power. I have another H here to compare it to and that pulls fine in 5th gear on moderate slopes and you can shift from 4th to 5th easily on flat ground
 
compression test would be last resort as I don't have equipment- it has new rings and starts first press of the starter button in all temps / uses no oil / has no blow-by
 
@ DanR have you driven Many H's? We've got 2 - both used to pull excellently in 5th gear, even on slight hills, the reason I posted is that one stopped doing that about a year ago.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:42 12/12/11) @ DanR have you driven Many H's? We've got 2 - both used to pull excellently in 5th gear, even on slight hills, the reason I posted is that one stopped doing that about a year ago.

I grew up on Farmall Hs. None of them ever had a problem pulling a hill in 5th gear unless there was a sizeable load behind it.

I still think the problem is with the ignition. Are the contact points in good condition? Are they gapped to the proper specs? Is there a FAT, blue spark? Maybe the coil is getting weak?
 
thanks rusty farmall, one of ours pulls great but
this ones gotten so bad that it will hardly pull on
flat ground! I could always try swapping the magneto
with the other H? anytime we had mag trouble before
though they ran until hot and then quit
 
Any spitting or sputtering? You could have a problem in the gov. not letting it "open up". I would double check the points gap first. Had a similar problem years ago with points closing up and it would loose power like that. Also, opening the main jet shouldnt make it smoke, sure youre turning the right one?
 
hi john, in runs very smooth and idles well, also pulls very well in 4th gear even up very steep incline. do you mean the points in the magneto? this tractor doesnt have a distributer!! I set max fuel by turning screw in at WOT until it starts to splutter and then turning back out two turns
 
(quoted from post at 11:54:06 12/12/11) hi john, in runs very smooth and idles well, also pulls very well in 4th gear even up very steep incline. do you mean the points in the magneto? this tractor doesnt have a distributer!! I set max fuel by turning screw in at WOT until it starts to splutter and then turning back out two turns

Yes, the points in the magneto.
 
I'm thinking if you can pull well in lower gears, ignition and carburetor has to be right.

Try pulling the tractor (not running ignition off) in road gear. Another H would pull that easy anyway and see if there is too much drag is against the transmission/rear end ??

I'm seeing something similar in a tractor here to include that rear end howl. I just know once I dig in it will add up quickly.

These gentlemen are correct too. As a kid we used to pull hay wagons for miles along hilly roads and we could lay into them pretty good. The H was always a good puller.

I always wanted a step between 4th and 5th but that's going off topic.
 
if the ign system is set right and the valves are set right and the carb will furnish enough fuel to smoke black at wot then sounds like fuel is sufficient ,as another poster stated it could be a timing issue in the gears ie timed a tooth off, worn gears or something loose but if it was running ok before the engine work and the timing gears weren't gone into that most likely isn't the problem but saying it isn't,couple other things that could be the problem is trying to run kero without a heater manifold or manifold it set in the wrong position for the fuel being used,also if the governor isn't working right it can run fine until loaded then fall on it's face,a good test is to hook up and implement that will pull the engine hard in one of the lower gears a see how the governor reacts to load changes
 
valves were set when new rings installed / head machined but no harm to try again - whats the setting for cold? IIRC the exhaust / intake are the same?
Ive been in the back end last year due to break seals and a bearing, nothing seems out of place in there>
 
If the cam gear is coming loose, or the key is shearing, it will be a dog. Pulling the Valve cover and using a dial indicator on the #1 valves, and getting a degree wheel on the pulley is the only way to check reliably to determine if it is off. If it has a live hydraulic pump on it (in front of the distributor) it could be an issue. Jim
 

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