removing stubborn tires

riverbend

Well-known Member
I'm trying to get the rear tires off the rims on my 'new' 350. 45 minutes of slugging away with a slide hammer has moved the tire maybe 1/4" in one spot. At that rate I'll be 100 years old before I get them apart.

Do you have any tips, tricks, techniques that work for really stubborn tires ?


Thanks

Greg
 
We use to use the down pressure of a fast hitch to break them down before I bought a hydraulic bead breaker. Just lay tire on the ground with part of the tire under the fast hitch drawbar. Edge of a Loader buckets work too.

Brian
 
Might be your technique.. once you get the edge into the bead, you need to cant it to go perpindicular to the rim... picture the tire still on the tractor. Imagine that you are driving the tool at the 12 oclock position on the tire. At first your are driving it towards the drivers seat. Once it goes in, raise the handle "up" so you are driving towards the axle. Take small bites and move the tool a few inches each time, after you feel it "bottom out" on the inside face of the rim. Bet it'll come off then.
 
I lay the tire out in the middle of the lot and drive the front tire of another tractor all around to break bead down,flip it over and repeat. This is 99% succesful.
If it's really bad I have pallet forks for the loader tractor and use those. It will punch through a rotten tire so if it's a good tire this is a last resort.
 
lay it ontop of a floor jack and chain it to that floor jack and then pump the jack to break the bead from the rim. this is cumbersome but does work..
 
Dish sop and water and lot of it. Apply it 2 or 3 times and give it 30 minutes between times it works wonder. Never had one yet I could not pop free doing it that way and been doing tires for around 40 years now
 
I did two rear tires this past weekend. First I used the loader bucket to break the beads. Then useing two irons I worked the bead over the rim. Pulled the inner tube out. then with the two irons worked the rim out of the tire. It seamed to work best by takeing small bites around the rim. No need for a hammer,just two pry bars.
 
Why do you want to take them off the tractor and lay them down. It is so much easier and faster to change them on the tractor like the tire places do when they come to your place and change them.
 
The only advice I can offer is to be sure & COUNT
all your tire irons BEFORE you put it back together......
been there..done that...
ruined a new tube TWICE.
Didn't feel so bad when I had it repaired & their tire man did the same thing .....
YESSIR....two weeks later PHOOSH !!
That wheel was either jinxed or posessed, I'm still not sure......
third time was the charm, that and he got his original prybar back.
Three tubes was getting expensive, but heck if it was easy........
everyone would be doing it.

Personally, after all that, I truly beleive it's worth it to have them put them on, they have all the stuff to do it right the first time.
I still do my fronts, but rears I leave to the pros.
 
For the really obstinate I use a jack hammer with a flat blade. A shot or two of brake clean will help lube the bead.
 
In case you don't have down pressure (I know a 350U does, not sure about a 350), my uncle used to break them loose by laying them flat on the ground and backing a rear tire up on top of the tire/wheel combination, onto the tire but as close as possible to the rim. If that didn't work, he would lower a 3-bottom plow onto the tire, with one of the points right next to the rim. I never saw that method fail.

Mark W. in MI
 
I take a tire iron and pry down on the bead. Squirt alcohol between the rim and tire and then use the tire hammer. It has always worked for me.
 
well never seen it done with a slide hammer. you need the regular tire hammer, i"d say 16 lb er. you have to hit all around the rim, not just in one spot.just keep working around the rim till it breaks. i"d say maybe 1 or 2 min and its loose.you would not make money in a tire shop at that rate.easiest is right on the tractor.
 
i use a chain and a handyman jack. be careful so the jack does not slip. if its rusted to the rim real bad, pour gasoline around the sealingedge of the bead and let it set overnight with some pressure from the jack on it. the gas will soften the rubber. here is a couple pics of the process

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I used an old bumper jack setting the base of the jack close to the tire bead and lifting a heavy vehicle. Hal
 
I had one from a Super A that had sat flat for 10 years. It was the toughest tire I ever changed. I tried most of the methods stated above with no joy. Long story short, I finally had to use a 4" angle grinder to grind the tire bead right at the rim. That tire didn't let go until I had cut through the support wire in the bead. I had to do it on both sides. Needless to say, my shop stunk to high heaven for a while and the rust that came out filled a sap bucket 1/4 full!
 
48" farm jack.

The inner bead is easy. Just jack against the drawbar.

Outer bead is a 2-man job, and you need a chain to wrap around the drawbar.

Technique is VERY similar to the one shown on the Cub tire above. Same kind of jack too, only we call them "farm jacks."
 
lay tire on ground, position a board on it as a ramp, drive up on it with other tractor or pickup or whatever.
 
I just replaced the off side rear inner tube on my 1947 Farmall M. It has the Australian cast iron rims and 13.5-32 tyres. In the end we lay the wheel down and put the front end loader bucket of the IH 844S four wheel drive tractor across the tyre on one side of the rim. Left the front of the tractor off the ground and the bead finally let go after a quarter of an hour. It was a difficult job, but all fixed now. You do have to be careful not to damage the rim or the tyre using this method, but there was no way slide hammers or tyre levers were ever going to get that tyre off.
SadFarmall
 

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