46 H Steering Wobble - I have the bolster taken apart

ljw

Member
I have read through the archives on this topic and decided to fix my front end wobble and steering play. Inmy initial inspection before disassembly, I found movement between the radial half gear and the spline on the vertical shaft. The gear moved but the shaft did not. I found the vertical shaft had front to back movement of about .030-040". I also found loosness between the worm gear and radial half gear of about 15 degrees on the steering wheel. Removed the top nut, radial half gear two washers, then removed the vertical shaft. I also removed the upper bolster bushing. One the shaft base there is a thrust bearing that appears to be in good shape. Above the thrust bearing on the shaft there is a 3/8" thick rubber seal? I dont see this on my diagram. The vertical shaft does not apear to have significant wear in the area of the bushings. I have not yet removed the lower bolster bushing. I wanted to ask a couple of questions before I buy parts. I want to do a complete replacement of the bushings/bearings, gears and seals. I have read in the archives that Carter and Gruenwald has a "kit" but I dont see it on their website. Does anyone know the part number and what is included in the kit? Is there another source for such a kit? IH? Do I need to do anything special to remove the lower bolster bushing? Is the reassembly as easy as the disassembly? Is there anything I need to be concerned with during reassembly? I appreciate any and all replies. Thanks in advance!
 
Carter and Greunwald DOES have a Kit.I had a little challenge navigating that sight.

$185.00

Copy and paste:

http://external_link/OrderingDisplay.cfm?GroupID=2&SubGroupID=30&CategoryID=33&SubCategoryID=60&StartRow=6
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:54 01/07/12) In my initial inspection before disassembly, I found movement between the radial half gear and the spline on the vertical shaft. The gear moved but the shaft did not.

Sounds like the sector gear was not tight on the pivot (vertical) shaft splines. The gear and shaft should be rock solid together when the top nut is tight.

I found the vertical shaft had front to back movement of about .030-040".

That says the upper bushing is shot. Presuming the bearing surface on the pivot shaft is not worn, replacing the upper bushing should eliminate the front-back movement of the pivot shaft/gear.

C&G sells the upper bushing singly. I bought one several years ago - seems it was around $20.

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Sounds like the thrust bearing and the lower bushing are in good shape. I'd leave both alone. Even a slightly worn lower bushing will not cause steering wobble - it's a worn upper bushing that causes most problems.

Above the thrust bearing on the shaft there is a 3/8" thick rubber seal? I dont see this on my diagram.

There's no seal above the lower bushing/thrust bearing. Could it be the seal at the bottom of the gear box dropped out and slid down the shaft?

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Reassembly is as easy as disassembly - probably easier(!). Just make sure the sector gear is TIGHT on the pivot shaft splines before you stick the cover back on!
 
I just completely redid my 400, and did the following (assuming an H is similar).

Removed the bolster, and took out the vertical shaft (laying the bolster on a strong table).

Got under the bottom part of the bottom bushing with a small screwdriver, and it just basically popped apart, since it is a split bushing.

Thought I'd try the same on the top part of the top split bushing, but was having a lot of trouble. Remembered someone here said to get a socket just the right size and pound it out from the top. That worked. It also pushed out the seal.

Noticed the top part of the shaft was very worn, so had it welded up and turned ($100).

Made up a long seal installer on my woodturning machine, and installed the top seal from the bottom of the bolster "y".

Drove the top bushing in from the top with a flat piece of walnut, then finished it with the socket.

Tried the same from the bottom with the bottom bushing, but I pretty much banged up some wood getting it 3/4 of the way in. Then I installed the vertical shaft and pulled the bushing up with the top castle nut, leaving out the thrust bearing. The bearing fits inside the bushing later.

My bolster only has felt above the thrust bearing and not a rubber seal. My thrust bearing was horribly cruded up with mud, and I should have replaced it but cleaned it and greased it up good, and made a thin spacer between the bottom of the bearing and mating surface of the vertical shaft (for clearance between the bearing and shaft -- it was rubbing).
 
best way i found to get the bolster bushings in is to pull them in with a long piece of all thread. i made a "puck " on the lathe witha step in it to fit the bushings, then lay a flat iron across the top of the bolster with a hole in it for the all thread and pull the bushings up and in place. there is a hole for a grease zerk, if you do not get it lined up, just drill a new hole thru the zerk hole in the bolster into the bushing. if you have a sleeve puller with a puck assortment, you may have the right sized one in the kit.
 

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