Help needed

Everyone,

The West Dubuque FFA CHapter is finishing their 1952 Farmall H raffle tractor. Fired it up and can not get the carb from dripping fuel. It is dripping from the adjustment screw at the very bottom of the carb. Also we are adjusting the carb and can not seem to get it to idle without pulling the choke a little. ANy ideas? Hate to pain it and have fuel leak.

The pain gasket is leaking alittle too, but that should be an easy fix.

Tickets will be sold after tractor is completed $15 for one or $50 for 6

Thank you

[email protected]
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:03 01/18/12) Everyone,

The West Dubuque FFA CHapter is finishing their 1952 Farmall H raffle tractor. Fired it up and can not get the carb from dripping fuel. It is dripping from the adjustment screw at the very bottom of the carb. Also we are adjusting the carb and can not seem to get it to idle without pulling the choke a little. ANy ideas? Hate to pain it and have fuel leak.

The pain gasket is leaking alittle too, but that should be an easy fix.

Tickets will be sold after tractor is completed $15 for one or $50 for 6

Thank you

[email protected]

Did you rebuild that carburetor?? If so, did you replace the packing in that adjustment screw? If you did replace the packing, and gasoline is dripping from that screw, all you need to do is TIGHTEN the packing nut until the dripping stops.

If Dubuque wasn't so far from me, I'd pay a visit and maybe give some pointers.
 
Rusty is correct on the packing screw. The idle mix is near the top. If adjustment does nothing, the passages may be plugged going to the idle ports Pulling the mixture screw out and applying a touch of carb spray might blow it clean, but if not it will need to come off to be cretain it is clean. A low float setting can also cause the issue, as can a manifold leak to air. Jim
 
Thank for the input, the students posted, and when asked I told them to seek advice. We usually ahve an issue of twisting things off, so when assembling the carb it could be that it is not tight enough.

Tractor is over hauled, even has some parts from Rusty"s Tractor on it. Thank you for all who have help it will be a nice tractor, with complete rebuild engine, all new seals and new titan tires with a professional paint job.

Thank again.

Matt
 
I taught high school Vocational Mechanics for 33 years; call me if you need more info.

FARMALL H & M CARBURETOR & GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS

Note: #1, 2, & 3 adjustments are done with the engine not running when the carburetor has been removed & replaced.
1. Loosen the 2 screws that are holding the governor tube to the governor housing. The clamp is slotted to allow adjustment. Tighten the tube-to-carburetor screws; gently tap the tube so it "centers" itself, & then tighten the tube-to-governor screws.
2. Remove the top cover on the governor housing (has the pipe going to the cylinder head) and check governor to carburetor synchronization. Remove the cotter pin so the clevis pin can be removed. With the operator's throttle lever set wide open and rotating the horizontal rod upward to wide open throttle position, the clevis pin should just slip into the rod that is in the tube. This horizontal rod should rotate freely allowing the carburetor throttle plate to move from idle to wide open. Adjust the clevis height if needed & lock the nut. You may need small fingers & right-angle needle nose pliers to make the job easier. Return throttle lever to idle. Re-attach the top cover.
3. Carb adjustment: idle air screw is set at 1½ turn out to start with; high speed mixture screw is 2½ or 3 turns out.
4. With the engine warm & running at wide open throttle (WOT), turn high speed mixture screw (on the bottom facing down to the rear) in until the engine begins to starve for fuel. Then turn the screw out until the engine begins to blubber. Now find the "sweet spot" in between the two settings. If you are working the engine (plowing, etc.), then the high speed screw needs to be turned out ½ turn or more beyond the "sweet spot" to be sure the engine isn't starving for fuel and can develop its rated power.
5. The same procedure can be followed for idle air mixture with the addition of setting the idle stop screw (just to the rear of the governor shaft tube) to adjust the low speed RPM.
On the "H"& “M” carb, the idle air mixture screw (faces to the front just below the idle stop screw) is an air adjusting screw so turning in will richen the mixture and out will lean the mixture.
Repeat the carburetor adjustment procedure again to make sure “all is well”.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top