Super M Box Blade

Moe Rocco

New User
I am looking to buy a back blade or a box blade for
a Super M with a Saginaw County 3pt hitch. Will I be
going too big with a 7' blade or should I stick with
a 6 footer? I am told this tractor really is a
puller but I have little experience in this. Also
does anyone have any recommendations for blade
brands? I can't afford some of the industrial stuff
I've seen but I am going to spend enough to get
something that won't fold in half.
 
I have a little MF35 that I use with a 6' box blade, have also used a 5' that I rented before I bought this one. I have no trouble with the 6' but I am not trying to take very much depth in one bite. I would think your SM would pull a 7' just fine.
Zach
 
I pull a 6' because I have one.I just use it on the driveway gravel.I could use a 7' on the driveway,but when it comes to tough dirt/clay,The 6' would be all I wanted with a loaded,FULL box!
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I see no reason not to pull an eightfooter with that tractor. You might consider an 8' grader blade, with homemade 18-20" extensions on the sides that are bolted on for easy removal. I have used one like that for several years behind a MF 165. If interested, I could send photos?
 
I pulled a 9'x32' Eversman landplane with my SuperM for years.Pulled in 3rd gear with a 'full bucket'.The tractor also'wore'a set of duals.7' will be no problem-buy an 8 ft'r.
 
I dont believe that in all cases DeltaRed.

I have moved some subborn soil with this 6'.It might do a 7' in certain cases.Even people that are knowlegable salesmen say the HP rating of the tractor isnt enough for an 8' box blade.it is bad advise to tell someone to waste money on an 8'box blade that they could only partially use and not be universally used for everything.

I would really like to see that 8' try to do anything here in person.
 
If you are pulling dirt that is already loose,a 7' would have good and bad days. Up some hills could be a challenge.Hard,uncut ground you would have to baby it. 8' is rediculous.
 
I have an 8' OPEN blade I move snow with.It works really good.An 8' box blade is a waste of money for The M size of tractor.
 
Depends on what you want to do with this box blade.

If you're out digging up hard clay, 6' might be too much.

If all you're doing is spreading crushed stone, then it will easily pull an 8' blade.

7' might be a happy medium because you can get the rear wheels narrowed up just inside the blade without dishing the wheel centers in.
 
Landplaning is done on loose ground just prior to planting.Yes there were times that I had to reduce the cutting depth.Heck,If I was really moving some dirt,I could even stall the 1256.There are times that even the little straight(7ft) blade could stop the SM.
 
Ideally, you want the blade just a tad wider than the tractor...with an M you should turn the rear wheels "dished in", but with only an inch of two of axle sticking out beyond the wheel center if you haven't already. Then get a 7 or 8 ft. box blade with rippers (scarifier teeth)if you have any "serious" grading to do. Don't buy some light weight cheap thing unless you're gonna just play around with loose dirt or gravel. If you're gonna try to cut a grade or level land you need a substantial blade and your tractor weighted so it can pull to it's true capability. Rip the hard ground first with the rippers and take off layers that are already loosened with the rippers. I used to do grading and trenching in the business so I'm telling you sound truth.
 

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