Regular wont start

Mark Poss

Well-known Member
I have put #1 piston TDC and set the mag to the #1 wire. Just had mag and carb rebuilt by Branson enterprises. Getting good spark from every plug. Getting fuel and getting tired of cranking. Had it popping here and there, tried pulling her but the pavement was too wet. Any ideas? Thankyou for your time, Mark.
 
Mark, If you have fuel compression and spark the only thing left is timing. Pull #1 plug and see if the spark is at TDC or before or after. Adjust the timing accordingly. There are many holes in the mag coupler to change timing + or-
They flood easy. carb adjustment open 1 and half turns. Did you choke it at all? Just the other day I was going to give up and belt my 10-20
to start it. Just a couple crank more and she fire right up. when it running you can set the
carb and timing by ear and next time it will start easy. oldiron29
 
What about belting it up with another tractor? We did that with the F-20 on the next farm and at full speed from our F-20 it would not run.Plenty of spark,gas running out of the carb but would not run.Instead of pulling the choke rod put hand over carb and found no suction! The old hot manifold had rusted out on the backside where it could not be seen!Funny what you rember after 50 years! Bud.
 
Try pulling it again. I had a bunch of stuck rings on my F-20 when I first started it and it didn't have enough suction to pull fuel into the cylinders. I was getting all flustered because I had the timing set, and had fuel in the carb. It just needed more rpm to increase the speed of the incoming air/fuel mixture.
 
Compression is good on all cylinders. Was told it ran 3 years ago. I dont have a belt to hook up to it so maybe tomorrow it will be dry enough to pull it. I will check timing again, Thanks guys.
 
Make sure that it is at TDC on compression stroke! If not it will be trying to fire at the end of exhaust stroke,beginning of intake stroke.Totaly out of time-lots of pops and no run.Standing at front of tractor, on right side of bellhousing right where the frame rail is there is small hole about 1" dia. Looking in this hole with a flashlite have somebody slowly crank engine over till you see the timing mark appear and line up dead center of the hole.This will be TDC on the compression stroke.I can't remember if it is stamped DC or TDC.This is easier to do with all the spark plugs out.I have had to wrap a piece of rag or paper towel around a small dowell or long blade screwdriver and hold it against the flywheel to clean off the crud,dirt to find the mark.This isn't really as hard as it sounds.A twist cap from a beverage bottle[ pepsi,coke etc.] does a great job of closing the hole so mice don't make a nice home of your clutch housing.
 
Gas to the carb still has to get to the cyls.Good compression says the valves are working so what about using your priming cups to put fuel inside the engine?? Bud.
 
i tried to pull start my f-20 and one tire would spin forward and backwards. what makes this happens ?
 
pull plugs and put about 1 tsp oil into cylinder. sometimes this will help. it will smoke for a while when it starts.
 
(quoted from post at 20:30:16 02/24/12) i tried to pull start my f-20 and one tire would spin forward and backwards. what makes this happens ?

Pulling it in too high a gear causes it yes. What you are seeing is the differential working backwards In normal operation the pinion drives the ring gear and the spider gears allow the wheels turn turn at different proportional speeds for turning. pulling the tractor causes the ring gear to try and drive the pinion and if it cant, the tractor will lose traction the input force cant turn the pinion so it transfers the force to the spider gears and 1 tire has to go backwards. All the gearing is reversed during a pull start, so for pull starting high gear becomes your "lowest" gear
 
Yup, what 36F30 said, plus, there are only 3 forward gears on a Regular. Later F-20's had a 4th gear. Make sure it is in 3rd if you are going to pull start it.

Lastly, if compression is good, and there is fuel, I believe someone posted about the timing possibly being just past TDC.....that would produce your results. The E4A and F4 mags are excellent spark producers when tuned up right, but can be a bear to get initial timing right with the coupler disk. too advanced, and you have a broken arm, too retarded, and you don't run. Best advice I can give at this point is to double and triple check your timing. Using the primer cups is also a good suggestion, there is a very fine line between the "rich" starting mixture required and "flooded".
 

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