Trailer Floor

Doug Hale

New User
Getting ready to replace the wood decking on my trailer. Wondering if using treated tongue & groove would be better than regular treated 2x6?
Thinking tongue & groove might not warp as bad?
 
Tongue and groove is generally used where exposure to weather is limited. Even the tongue and groove wooden porches have a roof and grade. If the water can cannot run off quickly it becomes absorbed by the wood causing expansion and it could buckle. When I redid my trailer I used treated 2x8 and redrilled the supports to allow me to bolt down the new lumber on both edges. It did shrink some but has not warped. I think it also strengthened the floor buy connecting it together as a single unit not just individual planks.
 
I used treated T&G to re-floor mine. And after laying floor at Knapheide Mfg. I know how to do it right, the floor shrank so bad you can see through the floor,the next one will be regular treated lumber, T&G was a wast of money.
 
I used an 1/8" rod to space the treated wood on mine. If I need to haul sand or fine material I use a plastic sheet to prevent leaks. It never has standing water on it, Snow yes. Jim
 
treated is fine,but,,,,, what u need to do is let it sit in the sun for about 4 months and THEN install it, MOST shrinkage will be done, worked fine for me
 
i agree.. T&G would be a wast of money and effort.

put in treated wood, and if you want extra protection.. hit it with black asphalt fence paint..


soundguy
 
30 years ago i built 2 grain tight wagon racks with 2x6 pressure treated t&g,carrage bolts,no nails and both are still good.Bud.
 
it will start rotting in the grooves unless it will be shedded. best way is as jim says, should have an air gap so it can dry. even good old treated spruce should give 15-20 yrs.
 
We use 2" rough cut solid oak from the local lumber mill. Bottom, of the boards get coated with creosote or roofing tar and the rest of the board get a couple coats of sealer/water proofer before they go on the trailer. We usually try and seal/water proof again every year or two.

On our horse trailer we cut tongue and grooves on the boards. Those boards dont run lengthwise though so I think dad did that to add a little strength between them and help keep the wind from blowing up through the floor.
 
Rough sawn white oak, stickered and air cured for 4-5 months (to dry a bit and stabilize), then installed. Will last almost forever if kept shedded. regardless of what type of wood you use, always install grain crown up, otherwise they will cup and lift.

That is what I am going to use on the flatbed on my 1949 KB5. Already have it on order with the sawmill. 8/4 2x6 white oak 14', don't ask the price I am paying for #1 8/4 boards................... :cry:
 
Use good old treated lumber........BUT, let it air dry for a few months if at all possible. It is soaking wet when the lumber yards get them, and it will shrink a noticeable amount.
 
Thanks for the reply"s. I"m going to use regular 2x6 treated. Went out and did some figuring, around 500 screws. That will keep me busy for a while.
 
I used treated 2 x 10's on my 14' trailer. 2 3/8" carriage bolts on each end and 2 in the middle (total of 6 per board). Put on sopping wet and let it dry. Leaves a 1/4" or so gap when dry. Sits outside year around in Michigan and going strong 20 years now. No noticeable cupping or warping.

Pete
 

I just have a 77"x10' utility trailer with 2x6 treated lumber. I try to keep the gaps clear of trash and treat it every year with Thompson's or it's equivilant. It's 10 years old, sits outside, jacked at a slight angle to drain and the floor shows no deteriorization at all.
Now, does anyone remember what the wood treatment was that looked like green Kool-Aid? It's probably one of those things that you can't buy any more. I built a picnic table when I was a Sr. in HS and because it was close to the end of the school year and I needed to fill some extra time without starting a new project, I treated the wood with it every day for about 2 weeks. That was in 1960 and when Mom left the farm in the mid-late '90s, that table was still in use and left at the farm. Dad had re-painted it a couple of times over the years, and the only slight rot was where his paint caused a pocket between 2 of the boards. I should have trucked it here to Kansas with me.
 
I used T&G treated 2 x 6 in my old grain truck and it shrunk a little. But I mixed half used deisel oil and half deisel fuel and give it two thick coats with a brush. Soaked the grooves good. Never had anymore problems.
 

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