- Thread starter mmack
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I pop stuck engines loose all the time but if you find water in any of the cylinders forget it because you will have to take it all apart to get it free. If the cylinders are dry then fill them with ATF and let it sit a week or so. Then set a 12 volt battery on it an use short fast taps of the starter button with the plug out to see if it has freed up. I can take a week or a month or more. Always put the plugs back in to keep dirt etc out and always pull the to spin the engine
gene bender
Well-known Member
Remove the sparkplugs and use a good flashlite and you will be able to see the cycl walls and if they are rusty you are going to completely tear the engine down. Theres a reason its stuck and if the walls are rusty you will need new sleeves and pistons and maybe more. It realy doesent take too much to pull the head as probably some valves are stuck also. Myself i would pull the head then go from there its the best way to see how the cycl walls are. Saves alot of messing around trying to get it free the money you spend on snake stuff will buy a new head gasket. Pulling the plugs and just looking at them will also tell you a bunch.BTDT.
James Williams
Well-known Member
Ive got a 39 H soaking now with no luck,Ive broke a dozen of old tractors loose but mostly taping on top of the pistons,Im to the point if soaking with anything will lossen them,they werent stuck good in the first place.Here on the east coast I beleive the humitity is a lot worst than most place
jimmy
jimmy
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Exactly! If all it takes is some kind of magic potion poured in on top of the pistons, then the engine wasn't really stuck to begin with.
Dean Olson
Well-known Member
If the visual inspection of the cylinder walls justifies it I use 50% acetone and 50% ATF. Fill the cyclinders full. I put it in gear and rock it every couple days. If that doesn't work then I use a little more force and use the hand crank or put a socket on the belt pully nut on the front of the motor. It that doesn't work then I start taking the motor apart.
I was taught that you never pull a stuck motor as that can create more damage.
I was taught that you never pull a stuck motor as that can create more damage.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Of course there is always the option of pulling the motor, removing the crank, and then use a BIG press to remove the pistons and sleeves as a unit. You can then break the sleeve and peel it away from the piston so you can remove the piston pin and salvage the connecting rods. New sleeves, pistons and a few other things and you've got a brand new motor.
My grandpa will pull the crank (on flathead Fords, but the concept is the same) and then take blocks of oak and metal bars and use the bars pushing on the oak pushing on the pistons as a press. He will use penetrating oil of some sort in the process. He doesn't talk much and this is about all I know.
Edit - This is a long term thing. Like do this and then wait a few days or weeks and they will pop loose from the oil and constat pressure. Same concept as parking a tractor on a slight incline in fifth gear.
BTW, if I wasn't going to work on this project right now there is nothing to lose by pouring some diesel down the exhaust. Might as well start the process of breaking things free. ATF/Acetone or brake fluid are probably just as good, but not quite as cheap as diesel. There are probably a million other things that work, too.
I used ATF back in 1975 on a Farmall A that was stuck. I pulled the engine as the head was already off the engine. I used a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer and tapped on a connecting rod after removing the cap. Two of the pistons came out with the sleeves and the other two just the pistons came out. Since they're wet sleeves they were easy to remove and I used a torch to heat the sleeves and then the pistons
were easily removed. I used a steam jenny on the engine block. The crankshaft measured .002"
undersize and my wife dropped it off at our local
auto machine shop. They called me at work and said the crankshaft only needed to be polished
and they had measured it .002" undersize. They furnished the bearings and they redid the head.
Had them to install the new pistons on the old rods. Bought the sleeve kit at our local IH dealer cost back then was $80.00. The tractor needed new tires, fenders, rims, steering wheel, seat and wiring. I gave $100.00 for the tractor and plow. I plowed the garden in the Spring of 1976. Hal
were easily removed. I used a steam jenny on the engine block. The crankshaft measured .002"
undersize and my wife dropped it off at our local
auto machine shop. They called me at work and said the crankshaft only needed to be polished
and they had measured it .002" undersize. They furnished the bearings and they redid the head.
Had them to install the new pistons on the old rods. Bought the sleeve kit at our local IH dealer cost back then was $80.00. The tractor needed new tires, fenders, rims, steering wheel, seat and wiring. I gave $100.00 for the tractor and plow. I plowed the garden in the Spring of 1976. Hal
my C engine stuck, sitting outside. manifold had a hole and let water into motor.
soaked engine with lots of things. tried turning with crank starter, screwdriver in ring gear, etc etc. pulled oil pan. put jack under rod bearing and jacked front of tractor completely off ground. then put screwdriver into ring gear to assist jack. it came unstuck and seems to be o k.
not recommending anything. it is your tractor. i figured mine was no good as it was.
soaked engine with lots of things. tried turning with crank starter, screwdriver in ring gear, etc etc. pulled oil pan. put jack under rod bearing and jacked front of tractor completely off ground. then put screwdriver into ring gear to assist jack. it came unstuck and seems to be o k.
not recommending anything. it is your tractor. i figured mine was no good as it was.
mmack,Burn it out! This method will get the job done in one afternoon. Follow my direction here.
1..Remove all, hood gas-tank, nose cowel, and radiator, Head and all wiring harness. Pan, oilpump, and rod caps. Have the tractor where you can roll it outside, CLEAR AREA OF GAS CANs, GREASE RAGS AND ALL FLAMMABLE THINGS!
tractor is now outside.
2..fill the cylinder with the most volume with Diesel add a splash of Gas, Set it on fire. Go get a cup of coffee and enjoy till the fire has burnt itself out. Take a block and a 4 lb sledge and drive the piston out from the bottom.
3.. repeat #2 on the next 3 pistons with the most volume. As you work your way down to the cylinders with the least volume the #of burning will go up to generate enough heat to pop the rust around the rings.
This method will allow you to at least inspect the piston and sleeve to see if they are salvageable.
***The first two usually go pretty quick the last 2 take a little longer.
***If motor is on a engine stand you can rotate the engine over for easier driving of the block.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
1..Remove all, hood gas-tank, nose cowel, and radiator, Head and all wiring harness. Pan, oilpump, and rod caps. Have the tractor where you can roll it outside, CLEAR AREA OF GAS CANs, GREASE RAGS AND ALL FLAMMABLE THINGS!
tractor is now outside.
2..fill the cylinder with the most volume with Diesel add a splash of Gas, Set it on fire. Go get a cup of coffee and enjoy till the fire has burnt itself out. Take a block and a 4 lb sledge and drive the piston out from the bottom.
3.. repeat #2 on the next 3 pistons with the most volume. As you work your way down to the cylinders with the least volume the #of burning will go up to generate enough heat to pop the rust around the rings.
This method will allow you to at least inspect the piston and sleeve to see if they are salvageable.
***The first two usually go pretty quick the last 2 take a little longer.
***If motor is on a engine stand you can rotate the engine over for easier driving of the block.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
I have driven used sleeves out of stuck H engines and had them
come out good enough to use again, it all depends on how bad the
sleeve is to begin with. I always drive the pistons out from the
bottom after pulling the engine and flipping it over, sometimes the
sleeve comes with and sometimes it stays in the block.
Zach
come out good enough to use again, it all depends on how bad the
sleeve is to begin with. I always drive the pistons out from the
bottom after pulling the engine and flipping it over, sometimes the
sleeve comes with and sometimes it stays in the block.
Zach
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Why do that when a starter with a 12 volt battery works fine and I have yet to break any part other then bend a push rod but they are easy to find and cheap. What you did is take what could have been worth $50 and made it into scrap iron and even a core starter sells for around $50 or more now days
gene bender
Well-known Member
Now that depends on how much rust is on the walls. I have one now that all the tricks in the world will never get this one free. Why someone would overhaul an engine and then let it get into the present condition the sleeve and piston will have to be pressed out together. I have welded up a bracket to push on the rod journal so the whole assy will come out together.
I used a bore scope with light on a Mustang car to look into the cylinders since it was fouling plugs. Found heavy deposits of carbon. If you can borrow one of these and look into the cylinders you can see how much rust there is in the cylinders. I pulled the head on the Mustang and found so much carbon I also pulled the pistons. The rings were stuck from so much carbon. New rings, rod bearings and a valve job
fixed the problem. Hal
fixed the problem. Hal
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
What problem a starter puts out more torque then a man can but still not so much as to break things other the valve push rods maybe. I have now to my record unlocked at least 30 stuck engines
glennster
Well-known Member
like the other guys said, check the cylinders for rust. i prefer to get the engine loose if possible before tearing it down. it will probably need sleeves and pistons anyway. i drain the oil out, then put the back tires up on ramps. some 2x12's about 3-4 foot long and a block about a foot high so the ramp is steep. put the tractor in 4th or road gear, then fill the cylinders with your favorite concoction. put an empty pan under the oil drain plug to catch the fluid as it drains thru the cylinders. i buy the pb blaster by the gallon and use that. the ramps keep pressure on the engine, and if its going to break loose, you will come out one day and the tractor will be sitting at the bottom of the ramps.
Lee in Iowa
Member
A guy around here that restores a lot of tractors got something made he could screw into the spark plug hole and hook a hydraulic hose from another tractor to and put pressure on that way.
Bill Krosnicki
Member
That's like putting a hydraulic cylinder inside your engine, seems like a good way to break something!
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
That system does work. I've seen it in action, but I don't know just how badly the engine was stuck. I've even tried it myself, but was NOT successful because the valves were stuck open also and all I did was pump hydraulic oil into the exhaust manifold.
To do it right, you need to use a tractor with a 2-way hydraulic system, and have the hoses connected to 2 different engine cylinders.
The adapter is relatively easy to make. Just knock the center out of a couple of spark plugs and weld in a hose coupler.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
No but I have never need to turn one back wards that I can remember and if I had to I have other ways that work well
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