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Breaking in Farmall H

R

RMOMN

Member
I had the head rebuilt, new pistons, rings and sleeves installed this winter. I have about 20 hours on it so far and 3 different times when it has been working hard the engine starts bogging down I push in the clutch and it still dies. When I go to restart the starter can't turn the engine over for a minute or so then it will finally turn over and starts right up. Is this normal when everything is new and tight?
 
Just curiouis - Do you have a temperature guage on it? If so does it stay normal or is it getting real hot?
 
I think there may be two separate issues.

The stopping could be due to a lot of things. The starting issue could be the high compression, advanced timing and the 6V. I would pull the coil wire and see if it cranks any different.
 
Is it easy to crank the motor by hand just after it dies? If not, then you have something seriously awry inside that engine, which will want serious looking into before it destroys something. If yes, then you have other issues. Not sure about the 6 volt system being the problem, because the tractor starts OK after a minute or two. Perhaps check the state of charge in the battery while the engine is running. If there is a charging fault, it may in fact be draining the battery or over charging it, both of which do not help with starting. As to the stopping problem, fuel issues and spark issues are the easiest to sort out and should be checked first if the motor is not tight to turn over by hand. Good luck.
SadFarmall
 
Did you ck your ring gap? If its too tight, when the engine heats up, the ends of the rings will meet and just a wee bit more expansion wil cause them to bind on the cylinder walls. They will cool down quickly when the engine stops, and in just a few minutes, you can start it up again.
No easy way to ck that other than pulling the head, dropping the pan, pulling the pistons and taking the rings off and reinserting them in the cylinders to ck. Yeah, it sucks.
 
That is actually what I have been thinking and I would guess this will not correct with more run time.
 
yeah was thinking the same thing - rings.

If it's not overheating and expanding too much (and you said it's not), then it's something that can't expand as much as it wants to.

As long as you're SURE it's locked up, and sounds like you are. I'd do as sadfarmall suggested and hand crank it next time it stops just to see(if you REALLY want to even try running it again - not sure I would).

In addition to the ring gap - I'd check the piston to cylinder clearance while you're in there. But I'd guess the rings are more likely the problem.

Total PITA, but if you just bite the bullet and do it - not the end of the world.

I'd at least pull the head and check the cylinder walls - assuming they were freshly cross hatched when you assembled, if you see any vertical scoring, it's more incentive to continue to the rings.
 
I did just call and talk to the guy that did the work and he said the fit of the piston.rings and sleeves was a little tight and recommended since I did not break in easy but had to plow and disk with it right away to use it this year and if it doesn't loosen up we would need to open it up over the winter. I appreciate all the feed back
 
(quoted from post at 14:07:41 05/22/12) I did just call and talk to the guy that did the work and he said the fit of the piston.rings and sleeves was a little tight and recommended since I did not break in easy but had to plow and disk with it right away to use it this year and if it doesn't loosen up we would need to open it up over the winter. I appreciate all the feed back
Click to expand...

You better get that in writing!!! If your plowing and such for 20 hours did not loosen it you have problems.
 
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