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Farmall Super A Oil barfing out intake

C

ccaissie

Member
Called out to the field to service a Super A-V which "quit". I futzed with the carb fuel valve, etc., and only got a puff and a sputter. Fooled with timing, checked carb float, etc, timing, blah blah. But occasionally a shot out the intake (complete with a splash of oil). We towed it home, and I tried to catch it in gear. Spluttered, fired, and all that, but mainly it blew oil out the intake stack.

I'll run compression check, but it sounds like a valve went bad, (all present and accounted for in the overhead)or head gasket failed.

Whaddya think?
 
Sgt Bull...yes, repeated checks of timing, mag rotation, and firing order. I had resurrected this unit earlier in the year, and got very familiar with mag issues.

Compression check gave me 45-45-45-35. The one with the 35, cyl #4, was actually one that was firing well...plug came out clean and light brown.

The firing order suggests that power stroke and intake of adjacent cylinders is when #2 & 3 fire. They showed 45 psi...no pressure leak shows there.

The valve action seemed normal, did not see a broken spring, clearance was correct.

When I had it running months ago, it smoked at startups, and after idling, indicating bad guides. Not too much blowby, as with a broken ring.

It seemed to be occasionally spewing out the intake tube when I was battery cranking it, when it coughed. Almost a geyser when pulling it and trying to run it. It geysered mostly when the engine was beginning to fire.

I'm willing to retest everything before pullng the head, so I'll give it the once-over in the morning.

In general, it could be a sticking intake valve, a head gasket leak, or any variation on these.

Ideas?
Thanks
 
Those compression psi's seem really low. I have C-123 engines in a Farmall SC and a 200 and both engines are all around 100-110psi.

I'll bet the that motor is just flat worn out.

My newly rebuilt SH used to occasionally back fire through the carb and puke oil out the air cleaner and into the jar. I adjusted the timing and so far has not done it lately.
 
Yeah, those are low numbers...expected to see at least 70. Then again, my comp gauge might be funky?

Odd that this tractor ran well, had plenty of power and thden just quit. Well the farmer ran it out of gas, I think, and when he refueled it I guessed the fuel valve and/or carb needle started acting up, so I chased carb and fuel issues first.

Most of these old tractors get into some strange acting once in a while, eh?

I intend to go over it again before pulling the head, now that it's not out in the onion field. I might try putting compressed air into each sparkplug hole and see where it's hissing out....
 
Possibly a large chunk of carbon/rust under an intake valve(s)? I would check the oil bath air cleaner oil cup for level just to be sure. What is the compression ratio of the engine? Compression ratio X 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure should give a good approximation of cylinder compression pressure. I.e. CR=5:1 would yield about 70psi. Some of the tractor distillate engines had a compression ratio under 5:1.
 
Well, with those equations, I'd say the compression ratio is about 2.4:1 in the worst cylinder. I intend to use another gauge, but I suspect the engine is quite worn.

The oil bath was in good shape, It's low after the towing in gear created the geysers out the intake tube.

It certainly could be a hung up valve. I'll check comp again, but I'm pretty sure the head is coming off.
 
Did you check the valve lash? I don't think that was mentioned - and should definitely be tried first.

The valves may not be able to close.

As for the oil - I'd still suspect a head gasket - but it's possible when towing it it's drawing oil in around the valve stems and blowing that out the valves that aren't able to close.

Vacuum is a lot stronger at lower rpms - though - if valves aren't closed should be very low...

Either way - nothing should be blowing out the carb - fix that first and see what happens.
 
Rechecked compression with a better gauge, all over 100. So, No rip and tear. Now what?

Yes, the valve lash was done when he first bought it in April, so that's all good, still good.

REtimed engine, still got a bad intake pop. Changed the plug wires. Voila! Evidently a bad crossover sparking. Man, who would believe it!

So, the farmer had changed the oil, messed with the filter, maybe bumped wires, etc. Still ran.

Then he ran it out of gas, and the tank shutoff valve got some crap in it, and wouldn't close 100%. He flooded the carb and engine. I dried it out, etc, but couldn't get it to run. then the towing and the popping geysers.

It goes to show that many factors can make a problem, and persevering and rechecking the work done is CRUCIAL! Imagine if I had the head off now...what a waste of time money and tractor utility.

Thanks for helping me engaged and questionong!
 
Good to hear the final solution(s) to the problem.

But still wondering how oil was coming out the carb - that'd make me nervous. Though, if it runs now and it's not burning oil, and oil pressure's good - sometimes it's best to forget you ever saw anything : )
 
If anyone messed(removed it from the tractor) with the Mag, it's easy to get them 180 degrees out of time. If that is the case, when you try to start it, it will blow oil from the air cleaner back out the intake. Don't ask how I know this??
 
Cylinder crossfiring. Arcing of the spark through bad wires to a different cylinder that's in the wrong phase, such as a cylinder during the intake stroke when the intake valve is open. It fires, backfiring thru the manifold, burning the gas air mix there, and thru the carb, and shoots the oil bath oil up & out. I guess.
The wire change made the difference.
 
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Gary Mitchell
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