Super C hydraulic line

I want to add a set of hydraulic lines to the rear of a Super C Farmall. I want more use out of the tractor, not to restore it so I don't care if putting in the line disables my cultivator arms. I want to add the lines so I can use a small, 10', wheel disk on it and maybe a culti-mulcher, again using it is more desirable for me than correctness.
Thank you for you help,
Charlie
 
What you want is a bypass block and from there to a valve then to your quick disconnects.

Search the archives, lot's of good info.

Bypass block is available from most of the Farmall specific parts suppliers. Hoses and valve available from your local farm supply store.

You might look at finding an auxiliary control valve and lines from a SC,200 with fast hitch. That looks more original and a lot cleaner install.
 
If you get the lines from a SC with fast hitch then you will have the ports for a remote cycl. Then you could use the SC remote control valve for your disc. That would be the easiest way without getting the block set-up.
 
like said, since you have a SC, best option
is the factory lines, valve setup from a fast hitch

the bypass block is also a good option

saw one setup on ebay where the pressure line
was cut and sent to a remote valve, then back to the
line to go into the factory setup

on one of my SC's which needed a total rebuild on the
touch control factory hydraulics...
(stuck valves, pump deadheading always, factory remote valve was also junk)
I didn't need them, so I got regular C lines, and made a block off plate
with just the suction line hole drilled out.
removed the plug from the pressure side of the flange.
routed it thru an open center valve, with the valve return plumbed to
the touch control drain.
So, the touch control is just a reservoir.
works fine to run my fast hitch
 
I pulled an 8' w/an old Super C 40 yrs ago, stock and worn out. I'm putting a 3 1/4 sleeve set and domes in this one w/340 heads. Why? Got me just want to. It's an old Allis disk and not just real heavy, I won't put the Krause behind it.
Thank you for your thoughts,
Charlie
 
Either way works, but you can go on ebay and pick up a bypass block for a Super C any day of the week. The fast hitch lines and valve are a little more difficult to come by.

There's no need to cut anything. Besides you need the hydraulic block as a reservoir for the oil.

You also need an OPEN CENTER hydraulic spool valve, mounted in a convenient location near the steering wheel.

Follow the instructions that come with the bypass block for installing and connecting to the tractor and valve. It will tell you which plug to remove and which hose connects to the IN and OUT ports on the valve.
 
That will be a great running C when its done as you should be in the 26-28 HP range. Maybe more if you put a 240 spring in the gov.
 
(quoted from post at 09:40:18 07/13/12)You also need an OPEN CENTER hydraulic spool valve . . .
t needs to also have a built-in pressure relief valve or plumb one in separately on the inlet side of the valve.

You can also add a remote valve without the bypass block by blocking the rockshaft in one position and throwing the lever the other way. In this case, the outlet from the remote valve goes to the reservoir.
 
I question pulling a 10' disk with an SC. I doubt it will do more than scrach the top of the ground. The standard disk size for an SC was 5'.
 
I pulled a 6 ft heavily weighted tandem disk at full angle 50+ years ago with an H in 3rd gear. Wheel weights and loaded tires. 10 ft behind a SC, even if the HP is close to the H is too big unless all you do is scratch the surface. We used the smaller disk with weight because we wanted to see results.
 
If it don't pull the ten foot well, I'll go back to the old 620 on it and just drill w/the SC. This whole thing is just an experiment, going to change the rears to probably 34's also, I just want to have fun w/it, won't pull it, if so maybe once a year at our Steam Engine show. Kind of make it my own, may also drop the front end down, who knows.
Just for fun and a bit of usage too, mainly pulling an old FB-B drill, old but show room new looking. I don't want to argue w/or offend anyone.
Thank you all again and all and any ideas appreciated.
Charlie
 
I bought this http://www.ebay.com/itm/FARMALL-SUPER-C-HYDRAULIC-TWO-WAY-VALVE-LINE-SET-SC-/150735120438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2318836836

Looked like the simplest way to go and the least expensive all things considered.

Thank you all for your help,
Charlie
 
The eight foot I pulled was an old lean disk, not at maximum angle and like you in worked ground, just a finish disk. Can't wait to hook her up to an old 540 semi-mount 4 bottom we still have :0).

Good luck w/your engine, I'm redoing mine also, pep her up a bit.

Charlie
 
Can't wait to hook her up to an old 540 semi-mount 4 bottom we still have :0).

Wow, lucky break on the hydraulic valve.

I hope it weighs 3 tons and produces 50HP, because that's what you're going to need to pull that plow.
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:34 07/13/12) I question pulling a 10' disk with an SC. I doubt it will do more than scrach the top of the ground. The standard disk size for an SC was 5'.

5'???? Dad bought a new SC with Fast Hitch and got a 7' F-H tandem with it. We had pulled a 7' pull type with a C a few times, but not very deep, just disking corn stalks. Used a JD 60 (about 37 dbhp) on a 10' disk.
 
LOL, you may be right on that. I'll find out here in a month or so if I get it done in time for when we put in winter pasture. Right now I could almost pull it w/a cub cadet the ground is so hard and no grass to slow it down.
We have a 4430 that is our usual disk tractor from what I'm gathering about Allis disks we may have to use it.
Thank you,
Charlie
 
I still have two 60's they are a good horse, but a horse that eats a lot. But if you work them you have to feed them I guess.
Charlie
 
I still have two 60's they are a good horse, but a horse that eats a lot. But if you work them you have to feed them I guess.
Charlie
 

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