MTA Diesel just dies when switched over to diesel

Duanes

Member
Tractor starts and runs good on gas and when I switch over to diesel it just dies. When the tractor was put away last winter everything worked well. This spring I went to start it and started on gas but, acted like it was dieseling while running shut it down. About a month later when I had time I went to start it and starter would not work. We pulled started it on gas and it started and ran fine but, Gauge on injection pump would not show pressure. I had the starter fixed replaced both filters,cleaned water trap and cleaned filter in the side of the pump. Bled trap,aux filter and both had good diesel flow. Started tractor in gas moved engine speed lever into Diesel and bled final filter with good flow and then each injector individually and all squirted fuel at least 6' across the room. Any ideas what is wrong? Thanks!
 
I do not think that the rack is stuck but that the switch over control that closes the starting valves is hanging on the gas side and there is noway she is going to start decompressed Check the linkage and if ya have to pull the valve cover and make sure that the starting valves are in fact closing.
 
(quoted from post at 12:06:36 08/22/12) I forgot to add the pump was rebuilt a couple of years ago at the place in Estherville, Iowa.

Has it ran much since then?

Sticky valves or a stuck pump are results of those situations.

A sticky valve shouldn't be a problem running on diesel if you have been pulling the decompression lever to diesel after you turn the tractor off. (this allows the decomp valves to cool on their seats)
 
I probably only run it 10-20 hours a year.If, the injection pump was not working would it still shoot fuel out of the injectors a good 5 feet like it did when I bled them? Also the gauge before I changed filters a bled was in the red and now it is just about pegged to thegood side.
 
Fuel would never get to your injectors if the pump was the problem. If fuel is shooting out when you bleed them sounds like your injection system is not the problem.

I'll give you $2000 cash as is and gone by Friday.
 
Definitely check the switch over system my md got grease and dirt in the linkage behind carb and wounldnt switch over properly and would hang up. If you get tired of messing with it ill give 3000 for it lol. Jim.
 
Jim, did you ever get your fuel line made up? What is the next problem? :lol: Seems you have been chasing a lot of small, easier problems.

I need to split mine again someday. I already have way too many irons in the fire with my WD-9 and real life to get into that project.
 
Not much for grease on this tractor all is nice and shiny and red. $3000 might get you the tires!
 
It dies so, quick I don't think it had time to smoke. When I first tried starting when after putting starter back on I accidently had in diesel mode and it puffed little smoke then smoke then.
 
(quoted from post at 16:29:42 08/22/12) Told ya down below what your problem is .

How were you so positive before you learned it was pumping fuel? Stuck racks seem more common than stuck starting valves.
 
Duane,

After reading all the other post I would like you to try something for me. When you have it running on gas, advance the diesel throttle so the injection pump is injecting diesel fuel into the engine. Look at the exhaust, you should see a lot more smoke (usually somewhat white) than what you were seeing when running on gas. If the smoke level does not change, I would say that the injection pump would have a stuck rack. If I remember correctly that fuel system is able to deliver fuel to the injection nozzle at transfer pump pressure. The pressure is low enought that it will not open the nozzle, allowing fuel to be injected into the engine.

If I'm wrong let me know. If all else fails, bring it over to my shop and I'll give you $4025. Let us know when you get it running and what the problem was. Charlie
 
No haven't got the lines yet, I am going to get a set from
oem... the 41md is just sitting for right now I am going to take
my 51md and 41h to a few shows this fall. Once that's over I
will concetrate on the 41md,also have to put a seal kit in the
scavange pump on the 51. Alot of projects and not enough
time right now. My plan is to restore the 41md to factory
condition it needs new rubber has shot 14.9s I want 12.4s or
full steel and would like to find an american bosch injection
system for it as well.
 
M Diesel has a couple Bosch pumps. Not sure if he wants to sell one or not.

In my opinion the prebent lines are the way to go.
 
Yeah for $200 you can't beat it and all the lines seem brittle
around the fittings just replace them and be done. This tractor
runs good but needs some tlc...either way its still a nice piece
being its a first year md. The guy I got it from has a 48md
with factory wide front,fenders, factory 2way hydro with rear
remotes and ausco lambert disc brakes. I may try to get that
one as well the tractor is really straight and about 98%
complete even has ih dust caps on rear couplers. It just
hasn't run in approx 2 years and both tanks are dirty and
needs rubber the whole way around.
 
I have seen more stuck starting valves and linkage then a rack. Because people do not know how to shut them down and when they do they will leave them on the gas side . I have been around the gas start I H diesel since 59 and the way i was taught by the head fleet mechanic was let them cool down while you were cleaning tracks greasing up and fueling up for the next day and when you park the machine you shut it down on the diesel side and leave it there till morning when you go to start it . Letting it ideal on the diesel side it will cool down faster BUT if you switch back to gas they heat up and this is one of the reasons that they crack heads . When i was a pup i worked for a vary large construction co and i could not count all the I H dozers and the gallion graders that ran the gas start diesel. When i started farming my first tractor was a 450 D and i abused it to no end i pulled 4 bottom semi mounts with a harrow on the plow and plus the fact that it was turned way up . When i sold it to a guy in Pa i showed him all i could about it and he had it for years then he sold it and it turned up back in my back yard and i saw it at the local I H dealer , walked over looked at the S/N and yep 25806 and i saw that the head was off and when i asked the one wrench that i knew well about what was wrong with it he said that HE thought that it had a cracked head and when they pulled it and had it checked there was nothing wrong with the head , i looked at Roger and said cam bushing in the injection pump wright . He looked at me funny and said how did you know , well when i bought it it had a miss and i asked the best I H mechanics around here what might be the cause of the miss and all said head . Well i tore the tractor down myself and sent the head out for magnfluxing and when that did not turn up anything we did a high pressure test with 200 degree water and still no cracks . Put it back together with a fresh valve job and yep still a miss a fart and a back fire . The way i figured pout what was wrong with mine was my buddy had a 450 and we started swapper parts , when we swapped out the pumps mine ran great his missed farted and backfired . Took the pump to RISh equipment and and old fart that worked in the pump room fixed it and he was the one that tweaked the pump and spent some time teaching me about that pump . Since the days working for the construction company and myself i have learned a lot more about these old diesels and i am still learning .
 
Charlie,
I did as you said and there does not seem to be much if, any increase in smoke. I put it full throttle and let in run in Gas 1-3 minutes. I Then switched to diesel and rather then dying immediately like before it would fire once well in diesel. Tried several times same result each time.
So, now I will be bring the tractor and the $4025 to you?
 
(quoted from post at 20:14:53 08/22/12) M Diesel has a couple Bosch pumps. Not sure if he wants to sell one or not.

In my opinion the prebent lines are the way to go.

I have a couple of 6 cylinder Bosch and one is new, but the only 4 cylinder unit is probably best for parts.
 

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