Anti-Sieze

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Ok, So on a few occasions lately I have needed to disassemble parts that I had personally assembled a couple years ago. These are heavy iron castings which are completely welded together with rust again. Now mind you I had removed all rust the first time around and slathered both the parts with Permatex silver anti-sieze. Now, just 2 or 3 years later, the parts are totally rusted together again and there is NO trace of any anti-sieze or that it did anything at all ! This is an application where paint,plating,grease,sealer or oil would not be useable. Anybody know of something that works better ? Does the copper colored anti work better? Thanks ~ Mike

Andrew Z · Sep 18, 2012

I have better luck with Copper based anti seize. Seems to hold up well to heat and dusty conditions for years. Have not had the best luck with silver or spray anti"s as well.

Andrew

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Thanks, I do think I am going to switch to copper and see if there is any improvement. I am in the rust belt here, and it can be truly unbelieveable the damage that gets done in just a few years .

Andrew Z · Sep 18, 2012

I hear you, living here in New England stuff rust up over night...

Andrew

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

I am in auto repair and its crazy what the salt can do. How about rusted out leaking oil pans on Ford trucks and vans, rusted through rear diff covers on GM trucks,spring brackets, gas tanks, filler necks, reciever hitches, even whole sections of frame GONE, not just rusted through but missing totally ! Ranger and Explorer exhaust manifolds with 50 cent size holes in them. Not the pipes, the cast manifold ! Not to mention fuel and brake lines, which dont stand a chance !

Janicholson · Sep 18, 2012

LPS corrosion inhibitor. A waxy very thin coating remains and stays well under adverse conditions. Google it Jim

John G. Hasler · Sep 18, 2012

Try blue Loctite. Coat the threads completely.

sflem849 · Sep 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 09:17:15 09/18/12) I am in auto repair and its crazy what the salt can do. How about rusted out leaking oil pans on Ford trucks and vans, rusted through rear diff covers on GM trucks,spring brackets, gas tanks, filler necks, reciever hitches, even whole sections of frame GONE, not just rusted through but missing totally ! Ranger and Explorer exhaust manifolds with 50 cent size holes in them. Not the pipes, the cast manifold ! Not to mention fuel and brake lines, which dont stand a chance !

My uncles 7.3 PSD oil pan has already rusted through a couple times and mine isn't far behind. My rear diff cover had to be repaired once so far.

FBH44 · Sep 18, 2012

Can I disagree? If you are talking atmospheric corrosion, then elemental copper will make it worse. Copper will be protected by galvanic corrosion, rusting away the iron to protect the copper.
Answer, if there is one, is galvanizing. If you can possibly hot-dip galvanize it, do it. If not, a spray-on galvanizing coating will be better. A spray-on zinc-rich zinc-chromate coating (if yu can find one) might also do.
But first, get everything down to bare metal, white metal is best.

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Thanks Jim, I will look into that . I was hoping you would offer an opinion, not only because you are knowledgeable, but I think you are a Minnesota man as well ? If so, you know first-hand what the salt can do !

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Thank you, but I am not reffering to threads , but 2 whole castings becoming one piece with rust.

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

The metal is always clean, either by sandblasting or grinding. I do suspect that the anti-sieze may actually be making it worse , is that possible? We are talking about massive amounts of ice melter put on the roads here that creates a semi-liquid type of brine if you will, that coats and penetrates almost everything .

Andrew Z · Sep 18, 2012

You said it Mass has been using liquid calcium for years and Conn started using it a couple years ago. That stuff rots and dries everything out, makes bushings squeak, wheels get fused to the hubs, pretty much eats steel as good as ice... Pretty hard to stop the corrosion on over the road cars and trucks here.

Andrew

sflem849 · Sep 18, 2012

(quoted from post at 11:40:28 09/18/12) You said it Mass has been using liquid calcium for years and Conn started using it a couple years ago. That stuff rots and dries everything out, makes bushings squeak, wheels get fused to the hubs, pretty much eats steel as good as ice... Pretty hard to stop the corrosion on over the road cars and trucks here.

Andrew

The Chicago area is very similar and it is starting to work its way up here now.

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Jim, From what I read they have the product you mentioned and also a cold galvanize spray, but neither is able to take heat very well. Is that what you see also? Steering knuckle where the hub and bearing goes in is the current example I am refering to.. and they get hot from brake heat transfer.

Janicholson · Sep 18, 2012

I believe the amount of heat would be a factor only if the brakes were used radically. It would be to the point that bearings and seals would be smoking. Beyond normal. I have used it on machinary that got to 250F and have had continued protection. Abrasive and chemical action will remove it, but it believe it is worth a try. (not 5 gallon buckets though) Jim

John G. Hasler · Sep 18, 2012

> I am not reffering to threads , but 2 whole
> castings becoming one piece with rust.

I see. Loctite might still control the rust, but the assembly would probably be even harder to get apart.

JRSutton · Sep 18, 2012

funny you ask that - I just took the wheels off my jeep and had to use the biiig pipe to break the lug nuts free. Wimpy impact gun wasn't moving them at all, but they were real tough even with a 3 foot breaker bar.

Assumed I'd be replacing a few snapped studs - but got very lucky - they all survived.

Even had to use a jack to pop the wheels themselves off - completely frozen to the hub.

Never had THAT much trouble removing wheels - I had them all off just two years ago, but felt like they were on there for 20 years.

Last time I had coated everything with the silver anti seize goop.

I have think that stuff actually made them stick much more than they would have without it.

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

It is pricey, but I am gonna order some and expirement some with it, thanks Jim !

Super-H-Mike · Sep 18, 2012

Thats a common problem here. I hesitate to lube lug threads with anything because of risk that they will loosen. I do however put some on the hub , but same as you...doesnt help and no sign of any anti being left.

mattwillson · Sep 19, 2012

80W90 is your best friend, goober snot it up and it will come apart later. an old cat skinner sold me on it

scotc · Sep 29, 2012

The Frod oil pans rust through from the inside, not the outside.

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