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M is getting hot

B

BigTone

Member
I finally figured out the carb and timing and it ran like a dream and then as I was letting it idol it started to get hot real quick got to about 200-210 before i could get it in the garage but it seemed like it got hot way to quick. Is there air in the system since its a new engine? New water pump, new thermostat, radiator was reconditioned, im lost...could it be the gauge maybe and how would you check that? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, ~Anthony
 
appears like you have an air lock. happens when you have thermostate installed. also dont idle slow at 400 rpm. idle at 800-900 rpm so you have circ. and air flow. have you kept track how much coolant you put in in rad. possibly not full till thermosat opens. temp will go up then drop back down when thermostat opens.
also helps to cover rad till temp is up.
 
Let it cool till you can keep your hand on the block. Open the cap and see what the coolant level is. It should be about 1 inch to an inch and 1/2 above the core openings. If it seems to have disappeared fill it to the level above. If it is that full, start it and look for coolant flow. If none, there is blockage, or the water pump impeller is not turning. M thermostats have a bypass that allows coolant to circulate all the time. Thus letting a airlock out on warmup. But there is no reservoir as on new cars, so you would need to fill it. Jim
 
Jim, I checked the level of the Rad. and it was about an inch from the the bottem of the fill hole, It did start to pump some coolent out of the overflow tube so im sure I have enough coolent (3 gallons of A.F. and 3 Distilled water). now I did only keep it at low idle and when I took the rad. cap off it looked like it was bubbling out of the thermostat housing back into the radiator but it was not a "flow" of fluid, should I have varied the throttle? I was afraid to run it down the road, get to far and hot and have to pull over and tow it back to the garage not to mention im scared to death about hurting the engine. I put a new radiator cap on it and it has 4lbs stamped on it, i dont know dumb question but could it be the cap not allowing air in or allowing air in? Sorry I know a lot of questions....thanks, Anthony
 
yes I have the fan belt hooked up. I usually get the big stuff but its the little stuff that gets me, when I was filling the radiator i forgot to screw in the block drain plug so as im pouring it in its pouring out onto the garage floor...
 
The temp gauge may be inaccurate. Checking it is pretty easy. Remove the sending bulb (plug the hole with a stopper or cork to keep from drailing the Coolant) put it in a small container (tin can will do) and fill with water to cover the bulb. put a candy thermometer (or other thermometer that can handle 250 degrees) Heat the can with a propane torch and compare the temps displayed. If it is pretty accurate, the water will simmer at around 205 and boil at 212. (sea level) less if at elevation. Thermostat should be placed with the spring (capsule) end toward the engine.
If there are bubbles in the coolant all the time it is running, you may have a head gasket issue.
Or a cracked head(nooooo) but lets go for easy things first. Jim
 
Retarded timing will do exactly that, get real hot real quick yet still run smooth. Try advancing timing 3 or 4 degrees.
Dave
 
Dave, when I static timed the distributor I put a test light on the distributor and it lite up, so I rotated the distributor away from the engine until the light went out then came back towards the engine until the light just started coming on. How do I advance the timing 3 or 4 degrees, do I keep turning the distributor towards the engine a touch? how do i know its 3 or 4 degrees?
 
I'm pretty sure that I put the thermostat in right, the cap points down while the open longer end points up into the upper t-stat housing, I guess if I have to drain the coolent ill check that but im trying to avoid it. I know the head is not cracked I had it checked and when I did the 2nd valve job while it was hot after i got it back in the garage there was zero water/A.F. in the oil. Dave suggested advancing the timing 3 or 4 degrees, I timed it like you said with the test light and It worked like a charm but im unsure how to advance it a few degrees accuratly? I guess if that doesnt work and I drive it again this time while varying the throttle (hopefully creating pressure like one guy here said?) Ill just have to drain the coolent and start checking the gauge, thermostat and water pump...Once again, thanks for the help my friend, many wouldnt help like this and i truly appreciate it. ~Anthony
 
If the Thermostat is installed with the spring and big part up it is upside down. There are two or three little arched struts that go to a cone shaped tip on the side that goes up. Putting a candy thermometer in the radiator and letting it idle is the easiest way to get a handle on the actual temp (unless you have an infared heat probe gun) Jim
 
Now that you say that and i look at the picture of the thermostat I think i have it upside down. The tractor never had a thermostat in it when i got it so I had to guess how it went. the upper thermostat housing has a slight resessed circle in it so I thought that the capsule and spring fit up into it but it is supposed to lool like an arrow pointing up not down...Do I have to drain the coolent to change the themostat?
 
Mark the current location then turn towards the engine until it runs rough. Then away from engine just til it runs smooth. May not be exactly in time but see if runs cool then. If runs cool then fine tune, if still runs hot you can easily put back to origional marked location.

Davd
 
I time mine by ear, find the middle of the smoothest operation at max RPM. I do not think it would get hot that quick just by timing. I would expect the thermostat is backwards or something blocked in cooling.
 
(quoted from post at 11:53:41 11/04/12) I time mine by ear, find the middle of the smoothest operation at max RPM. I do not think it would get hot that quick just by timing. I would expect the thermostat is backwards or something blocked in cooling.
Click to expand...
ight want to check centrifugal advance, as if only static timed & centrifugal advance is stuck/broken & does not advance with rpm, they will sure run HOT. But I'm with the other poster in that a couple of minutes is too short for advance to be the problem.
 
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