Now I have the clutch back from the rebuilders, the next step is installing it. The I&T shop manual is lousy as far as instructions. I would like to know the torque specs for the flywheel and the steps from that point on. The last thing I want to do is screw something up and have to do this again, the work doesn't bother me but the money would seriously upset SHWMBO. Thanks .
- Thread starter MoMike
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I do not have the Spec.
With FW torqued correctly, and the pilot bearing new or checked and lubed, Install the driven friction disk so the center hub springs are to the rear, not the FW.
If there are three threaded bolt holes in the raised portion of the pressure plate housing, use three of the PP bolts in these extra holes. Tighten them down evenly till they bottom. This compresses the clutch springs, and allows the driven disk to float. Now install the other three bolts at 120 degree spacing, to hold the PP onto the FW. With the new throwout bearing in place, and a check on the Live PTO drive tube splines, reassemble the split. The loose clutch disk allows for easy fitting of the shaft into the pilot bearing. Once it is a whole tractor again, remove the three bolts in the clutch PP that were holding it compressed, and install them in the flange where they go. Adjust the clutch and TA.
Hook up all the assorted components and there it is. Jim
With FW torqued correctly, and the pilot bearing new or checked and lubed, Install the driven friction disk so the center hub springs are to the rear, not the FW.
If there are three threaded bolt holes in the raised portion of the pressure plate housing, use three of the PP bolts in these extra holes. Tighten them down evenly till they bottom. This compresses the clutch springs, and allows the driven disk to float. Now install the other three bolts at 120 degree spacing, to hold the PP onto the FW. With the new throwout bearing in place, and a check on the Live PTO drive tube splines, reassemble the split. The loose clutch disk allows for easy fitting of the shaft into the pilot bearing. Once it is a whole tractor again, remove the three bolts in the clutch PP that were holding it compressed, and install them in the flange where they go. Adjust the clutch and TA.
Hook up all the assorted components and there it is. Jim
Nebraska Kirk
Well-known Member
My service manual says 67 ft/lbs on the flywheel bolts.
I looked at mine and it doesn't have the extra holes, so would I bolt the pressure plate down using the three holes between the release fingers and then reassemble the split and use the throwout to depress the clutch fingers to release the lock downs and then finish bolting the pressure plate up? There are wires under the release fingers holding them under pressure, pushed in towards the hub. Thanks for the help.
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
When I did the clutch in mine I didn't have the holes either. I used a spare input shaft to line the disk up with the flywheel and then bolted down all six bolts. Then when I went to put the engine back on the torque tube I made sure the transmission was in neutral and reached up through the hole in the bottom to wiggle the IPTO shaft and the input shaft till they both slipped into place. I can't remember which one engaged first, but I know it was not as hard as I had thought it might be.
Zach
Zach
The clutch in a 300 doesn't have the three capping holes, but if you really want to you can compress fingers after bolting to flywheel and insert a small flat strap iron between head of pin and pressure plate. Compress enough so disc is loose. For many, many years, I just eye balled the disc before I wised up and left pressure plate off flywheel and bolted it in later from under neath. I always do a trial bolt down and remove it again though to make sure fingers lay parallel to pressure plate and were even. I used to rebuild all my own clutch's so I knew they were adjusted right then. Some rebuilts you get are machined too much for proper compression thus short life. Have returned a few of those to supplier. I always used new parts years ago.
MARK ROBKE
Well-known Member
Hang the clutch disc/pressure plate assembly on the splines and roll the tractor halves together. After bolting the halves up, just bolt the pressure plate to flywheel thru the hand hole underneath.With this method, you only have to align the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Way, way easiest way by far to assemble. Mark
Janicholson
Well-known Member
If the clutch PP as delivered is compressed using wires, the driven disk will be loose when it is bolted to the Flywheel with all the bolts. That would be good. It serves the same function as the compression bolts I described. I am not sure which 3 bolt holes you refer to in your last post. Jim
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